Natural and textured Spring Couture ’18

Haute Couture is sending a message, maybe not a meditated one, but it was clear. Nature, in most cases, was the inspiration for most collections. The textures, the roots, the flowers, the sky, the movement. In a clear or surreal environment, nature had a leading role in the trends that will be dominating the next year, in the clothes we all be able to wear.

Maybe it is also a cry for the industry to step back and slow down its pace. Many talented designers have resigned their posts due to the pressures of launching 6 different collection, tending to trends, and satisfying the loyal brand customers. And of course, battling the copycats, born and raised with the fast fashion brands, and their pressure to get people something new, every week. True fashion cannot do that, and neither this nature will be able to hold out for long.

Haute Couture is also feeling a lot more optimistic, the collections were full of colors (to the exception of Dior), filled with tulle, frills, sequins, embroidered flowers and a sense of lightweight, and a clear nod to the female empowerment. Many of the couturiers opted to show more pants, even tuxedo constructions owned by the softness, lightness and femininity. This is also a repercussion of all the social movements and distresses that we’ve been witnessing or have been a part of for the last year. Let there not be a doubt that fashion is a strong way to express one self for the human being.

Beyond all these meditations, the trends are clear, so get ready. Texture, a lot of it,  nature related, specially. Feathers, frills, embroidered flowers, and tulle will be making a strong come back, as well as some color block and as Galliano clearly stated with his Margiella collection, clothes that will shimmer with light.

Marie Antoinette of today

Rihanna made her second Paris runway with Fenty x Puma yesterday.

Contrary to what has happened over and over, and over again with Kanye, Rihanna has convinced the Puma execs, the critics, and the people that not only she has impecable style and can pull anything off, but that she can convey this fashion-savy feeling to a collection.

The inspiration of SS2017 was Marie Antoinette and her gym wear, had she ever been exposed to those places. And I’m not going to lie, it’s weird, and it points out that there’s very little room for fashion insecurity. If you don’t have what it takes, you will never wear any of Rihanna’s creations.
It has some very nice clothes and undoubtedly, there’s talent there. The outwear lingerie, the high heels with the sneaker shoe laces, the fancy pant suits and the silky palazzos.
Rihanna followed the steps in the NYFW with the pastel palette, with a stronger delivery.
And she also reminded us that she was not a 90’s child, because she keeps on betting on all those horrible 90’s trends, like the huge platform sneakers,  the chokers and the extreme hair.

Having said this, I do believe that, unless she’s going for the Couturier status and most surely athleisure won’t her that appointment, she could aim for something a little more street wearable.

Be sure that you will be seeing a lot of Fenty x Puma in the next Rihanna sightings.

Millenial Tropic

The sicilian roots of Dolce&Gabbana seem to be an endless inspiration for the italian duo, who has found and established a defined style for the brand.

The spanish influence on Sicily, the sea, the traditional italian food and the catholic virgins are the source of those core brand values, and they’re just good enough.
It is a fun, strange combination where the “Mamma” figure is always represented by the very feminine and sensual lace, and reinforced with the embroidered and shiny beaded virgins.
The pasta, gelato, pizza and pomodoro have a leading role in the collection, printed on the dresses, the jackets and the head pieces.
Even the fish from the sea, the glasses and the olive oil are captured on the clothes, and this tradition meets the millennial introduction that Domenico and Stefano are trying to convey towards the new generations, always looking for something aspirational and close to luxury to wear, with the logo T’s, the sweatshirts, the jeans, the appealing crowns and the sunglasses that are always a fashion statement.
The transition that D&G aimed for at their runway is still far from the metamorphosis that fashion will soon have to go through, in order to get to the digital millennials who naturally find the traditional runway, obsolete.
Milan and Paris are still struggling to keep its fashion traditions. Even when the collections and the ambiance change and develop into a living thing, the first stage is still the runway and the power houses have yet to find another perfect display for their work.

 

Michele’s 70’s

I must confess that I believe that the picking of Alessandro Michele as Creative Director of Gucci was an incredibly bold move.
The man has been working on the brand for a long time, and yet he was a complete unknown in the fashion circuit.
He is, undoubtedly, a talented mind. And yet, I do not understand his aim. I don’t believe it is clear.
Then again, the values of Gucci have always been a little ambiguous, creating space enough for the creative directors to go the way they feel like.

This is the introduction to a Spring Summer 2017 collection that I just don’t get.

It is very seventies meets amish-chinese inspired, if there’s such thing.
The textures are all over the place, from metallic colorful frills and sheer flowy fabric, to something like plastic turned into a pink dress.
Very far from the NY pastel palette, Milan is going full vibrant color and making a stronger statement. Let’s see what Paris brings.

An “Under the Sea” collection

The masterminds behind Marchesa, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, have always been known not to follow trends, but to remain in the Marchesa world and build from there.

There have been so many interesting things, but they always put their money in collections that are feminine, delicate, and with so much work on them.
Those are also mostly evening and big events clothing, not your everyday pant suit deliveries.
Not that it was stated by them, but mostly my idea of the collection, they seemed to be inspired by mermaids and the fantastic world of the sea.
The gowns were, most of all, in sheer iridescent lavender, pink, blue and green; except for those gold, silver and black lamé figure hugging dresses, and some grecian-roman inspiration too.
It is another bet on a soft, sweet, breezy Spring-Summer 2017, and some obvious presence on the Red Carpet.
Then again, these collection is so beautiful that I would use any of these dresses to be sitting in my house, like reading.

20 years of Lhullier

Monique Lhullier started 20 years ago in bridal fashion. Her creations stunned everyone at bridal Fashion Week, every time.

Six years later, the designer wanted to give her talent a try with ready to wear collections, and here we are 20 years later talking about her very girly, very feminine, playful and sensual clothes.
Let’s face it, most of them are great dresses to be used as a wedding guest, or as an incredibly stylish bridesmaid. They have a lot of craftsmanship into them, and in their subtlety, are very delicate due to the fabric, beadings and laces. In this case, there are even some feathers.
Lhullier is betting on a very pastel Spring Summer of 2017, with bows all over. And I’m guessing we’ll be seeing a lot of these on the Red Carpets to come.

LV Parfum

After a long, looong time, and several misguided announces, Louis Vuitton finally will have its essence. They have taken their time, researching the best parfumeurs in France to get this one just right.

The household that Jacques Cavallier Belletrud represents is an old perfume household that had been on hiatus for over 70 years, and now will see the light again as it makes LV’s first ever fragance.

Check out the introduction

Lv Introduces

 

Vídeo

Haute Love!

There’s a lot to be said about Couture week. Like that awesome runway right in the middle of La Fontana di Trevi that took place today at Rome, by Fendi.

It is just pure magic. 

And also, this Stéphane Rolland structured black&white gown.

Gucci’s Florence

Remember Florence Welch wearing that 70’s boho-chic Gucci dress at the Grammy Awards? The soft pink one, with stars and flowers, with the shiny embellishments?

Yes, I’m sure you remember, as you could easily know that it was an Alessandro Michele’s creation. And as once Florence was the muse for Karl Lagerfeld, she is now the unofficial Michele’s muse, as she will be the italian brand watches’ ambassador.

And Michele has started to design the costumes for the Florence + The Machine tour “How Beautiful”, set to begin at some point this year.

Check some of the drawings.

An ode to slow Haute Fashion

So, the fashion industry has been experiencing some serious turmoil with the designers resigning, and maisons left without creative direction.

There are numerous reasons for a designer to leave. The discrepancies with the financial direction, the creative limitations or just a fight with the brand director. Case in point: Alber Elbaz. This is an ongoing fight, given that after his exit from Lanvin, his creative team has been very outspoken of their not so loved direction.

The rumor mill has it that Stefano Pilati is leaving Ermenegildo Zegna for Lanvin. So we haven’t hear the last from this particular case.

Now, there’s a new case of designers leaving and having issues with the brands, given the pace that fashion has come to thanks to fast fashion (we are looking at you Inditex and H&M). The luxury houses have to take on a much faster pace in order to catch up with the created demand of trends from the consumer, and the fact that fast fashion steals some inspiration, doesn’t make things any easier.

Designers who are artists first and foremost, are succumbing to the pressure of not having real time to look out for inspiration and the magic that makes luxury fashion special and different. I’ve written about this and I believe it is right. First, if the industry slowed down, we would be a lot more eco conscious and we’d stop creating obsessive consumption and actually create unique pieces that the people would want.
And there’s the internal job of the artist, of the creative process. If they have to put out around 6+ collections every year, there’s no real time to really fill the collections with inspiration and the love of creation that designers can give to their clothes.
Should these concerns go any further, we will be seeing a change very soon.

And now, in an ode for true inspirational, magic fashion, the latest Spring 2016 Haute Couture. You’ll notice the trends (beyond the pale rose and the serenity blue pentanes), we are aiming for colors, for very sheer and see-through fabrics, with a lot of flounces and tassels, mixed textures and flowers (that can’t be left out, because it is spring)

Alberta Ferreti with her Limited Edition, inspired in the Marchesa Luisa Casati with femme fatale in the 20’s silhouettes with a strong layer of animal inspiration, specially in the accessories.

Jean Paul Gaultier gives an homage to vintage french night life in his very particular way, enjoying that he no longer has his pet a porter line, and he can go all out and have fun and make great pieces in Couture.

Alexandre Vauthier just goes out for the sensual woman living the nightlife and enjoying herself. She’s a team and she’s elegant all in one. there are some powerful statements in this collection. And a lot of red carpet possibilities.

Armani Privé gives a sense of continuing his latest Couture collection that had flowy and soft, delicate fabrics with soft prints but this time he went for the mauve tone, going for lilac. And frills, bubble skirts and dresses. And the very trendy flats with straps.

Karl Lagerfeld is going eco friendly with Chanel, or as much as the brand is able to. He went for wild cotton and other natural fabrics, without forgetting the traditional Chanel linings, mixing them up with long printed playful dresses and some 20’s inspiration.

Dior has been left without a Creative Director. The kids who were working with Raf Simmons took over this collection whilst the direction looks for an appropriate designer. And of course, the result is that the brand suffers. This collection is not bad, it is just flat, there’s nothing surprising, nothing Dior-like but the basic guide lines. I don’t see Dior doing so well this time.

Elie Saab is changing. Or at least, the inspirations have changed. India meets boho-chic this could’ve been called. And it is just wonderful. It is the proof of craftsmanship, and shiny boots that everybody will love. Enjoy the flowy fabrics, the sari-like crossing, the beading and the embellishments, the show jackets with long necks and sheerness.

Giambattista Valli also homaged Paris (due to the terrorists attacks back in November), through its gardens and its flowers. And an encore from the last collection, Remember Rihanna in the huge pink layers tulle dress? Well, there’s a new version, with a black bandeau. It is not so creative, but it is beautiful. Oh, and the skirt with the short front and the long (even train) back are back.

I just don’t really understand Riccardo Tisci. I do not like most of what he’s done for Givenchy, and lately that horrifying lamp-like dress Cate Blanchett wore and the rather ill-fitting green gown that Julianne Moore wore for the SAG Awards. That one is actually in these pictures. It is not a bad dress, but it didn’t fit the redheaded actress right.

Maison Marginal has benefited greatly from the talent of John Galliano. The designer has refrained from his popular antics in the runway, and has found a way to mix the Marginal values with his own. As you know Margiela values are a little weird, and you can add to that the magnificent Galliano creations. There’s texturing, there are weird mixes and matches and some are big. And the boots are to die for.

Bertrand Guyon has also been a good match for Schiaparelli. He seems to understand the influences and inspirations that come with the brand. And this time, food and the lobster dress were the prime focus. All the elements of a picnic, including the blanket are included in the clothes, and it is a lot of fun.

I’ve always liked Ulyana Sergeenko’s collections. They have all that russian thing going on, and also that touch of femme fatale. The first collections were a little slow, and then they picked up. These one, I just didn’t get. There were corsets, and lingerie popping out, and 80’s trends, and country dresses. There was no common thread, no sense of order. It never built up ‘cause there was no where to go.

I love Valentino once more. The fact that Chiuri and Piccioli are aiming for their roman background has made their collections just the more beautiful. The last greek-roman one was just great, and this one is also fantastic. They went for a little baroque, but they kept the feminine, the sensual, the delicate and elegant, and the beautiful accessories featuring old coins, even in the feet.

Donatella Versace has gone to the vault of inspiration and it may have not been as good as they thought. The white suits with popping bright colors and slits are a good way to go, and even some of the roman inspired dresses, also rather colorful (like the one Brie Larson wore). But then there were all those weird Swarovski straps coming and going, like tying up the dresses pieces of a dress are a little bit too much. It is going for sensual and sexy to plain tacky. Maybe it’s time to back down a little.

Viktor and Rolf, as far as I’m concerned, do not design clothes to be worn, but to be seen as pieces of art. And this time, Pablo Picasso was the biggest influence. The eyes, the mouths, the heads, even the boobs were all marked out on very white canvas. Even over the models’ faces. It is interesting how art truly translates into fashion, the way Viktor & Rolf do it.

Zuhair Murad is a master of red carpet creations. The clothes are just picture perfect, and actually really beautiful. The dresses are dreamy, and this occasion is no exception. With the corsets and skirts worn by Elizabeth I and the english court of the time, the embroidered fabrics and the lace have a huge moment. Do not miss the wedding gown at the grand finale. Another master creation of artisan hands and dedication.

 

 

 

 

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