NYFW is here

This is just a taste of the beginning of NYFW SS18.

The closing designer of the first day is none other than Tom Ford.

This man is talented beyond words. His eponymous label has always been trendsetter and wonderful, but this collection has a different sense to it.

You’ll see what I’m saying after you see Gigi Hadid in a draped Barbie-like gorgeous pink-lilac body hugging dress, with the metallic sleeves.

So feminine, so elegant, so chic.

Be ready to love it

The dark side of Fashion

Rumor has it that the extra fast-paced environment of fashion was what got the best of Raf Simons, and that was the primordial reason for him to leave the Creative Direction of Dior just after 3 and a half years.

Raf Simons

And if you think about it, for that particular maison there’s: 2 Haute Couture collections, Spring-Summer, Fall-Winter, Cruise, Pre Fall-Resort; there’s also the complex ad campaigns, supervising the rest of accessories, the shootings, the brand appearances on the red carpet, to name a few responsibilities . Fast fashion is a term only applied to H&M, Inditex, Uniqlo and it should be to every fashion brand that wants to grow and be known and bought. That goes as far as luxury.

But there’s more than one way to see it.

It is well known that Christian Dior himself was unable to adapt to the idea of Prét a Porter, and he was never able to catch up and his brand started to lose all its shine. That also happened to the master of Haute Couture, Christian Lacroix.
He delivered magnificent Couture collections, but did not seemed to grasp the Ready to Wear concept. The rest of the designers were aiming for the working woman, and the eccentric Lacroix creations could not fit in. He’s been in and out of the fashion world since 2009. He even did a special Haute Couture collection for Schiaparelli when the brand came back. He was the perfect match if there ever was, and yet the reviews weren’t at all good.

Christian Lacroix

The most recent drop out of the high fashion and ready-to-wear-craziness was Jean Paul Gaultier. The french enfant terrible wanted nothing to do with the exhaustive schedules of actual fashion. He pointed out something that most designers have kept silent. The popular brands such as H&M, Inditex, and even “premium brands” such as Michael Kors are shamelessly stealing the “inspiration” (not to say actual designs) from the originals creators. And of course, they could come out with almost the same pieces, with low quality materials at 30% of the cost. And high fashion and luxury can’t fight that… At all.
So Gaultier now works in his Couture collections and seems happier than ever.

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Alexander McQueen had some depression issues, but the demanding environment he lived in may have fed his inner demons even further. He was an awesome talent working at his own brand and yet it was too much for him to bare.
Tom Ford had a meltdown right after leaving Gucci. He had been an apprentice under Yves Saint Laurent, who happened to turn against him right after Ford took over the creative Director spot of the french maison, and then he picked up Gucci and gave it a new shine. He couldn’t focus on his brand ‘cause Gucci was so demanding and he left amid rumors of a massive fight with the directives. The man experienced some serious depression right before his eponymous brand conquered the world. And even then, Tom Ford had a terrible time adapting to the ever changing digital times, cutting out press and bloggers out of his runways trying to keep them as secrets. We all know how that has turned out. There’s a video featuring Lady Gaga now.

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And then of course, there’s the Galliano meltdown. The drunken (and intoxicated) anti-semitic rant that went viral and meant the end of his reign at Dior. He was even cast away from everyone in the industry, except for Oscar de la Renta who seemed to be the only with common sense to understand what had gone down. The talented Galliano had had too much of the pressure, and he was using drugs and alcohol to get by. Pressure got the very best of him, and went overboard. And now you can see him happily working back at Maison Margiela, were his eccentricities are praised and have become the success of the brand. But he’s not the Galliano that walked the runway in disguise. He’s clearly far more reserved and careful of his public image. It could not have gone any other way.

John Galliano

There’s the case of Nicolas Guesquière. After a bitter fight with Kering after he left Balenciaga, LVMH made him the creative head of Louis Vuitton, bringing a much needed change to the brand after all those years under Marc Jacobs who also wanted to focus on his brand and yet could not do it because of Vuitton.
Nicolas has made some huge changes, trying to give a renovated sense of exclusivity to the Maison. The man supervises everything, all the collections, all the accessories, the models, the photo shootings, the ads, the runways. Guesquière is a lot less theatrical than Jacobs, but he actively participates in the globe trotting runway-shows for Cruise and Resort, but he makes the most of Vuitton assets and legacy.

Nicholas Ghesquiere

Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce were forced to eliminate D&G, so they could truly dedicate their efforts to Dolce&Gabbana, that was the mother brand with the largest income. The sicilian pair have convinced his followers with their consistent runways and the brand has experienced growth.

Somenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana

The big american brands have a clearer path. Donna Karan stepped down from her brand and left it to others to run it. Ralph Lauren stepped down as Lauren’s CEO, to bring in someone with a larger growth vision, but the man will remain there for designs and consultations. And Tommy Hilfiger sold his brand to a conglomerate some time ago and he remains as the creative head though it is not exactly an exciting brand.

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And then there’s the lifelong fashion powerhouse. Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Miuccia Prada.
Karl Lagerfeld recently talked about his lifelong contracts to Fendi and Chanel. The man takes Chanel runways all over the world and he won’t stop under any circumstances. All the pressure that exists in the fashion world may be feeding him what he needs to keep working at both brands, without any considerations to negative critics.
Giorgio Armani has also declared that he has no intention of retiring. He will keep in working on his bigger brands, ‘cause in case you don’t remember or don’t know, Armani sells from hotel designs to furniture and (obviously) clothing to even candy and flowers. The Emporio has no recognizable heir, even though everyone points at Roberta Armani, the designer’s niece.
And Miuccia with her ailing Prada and its growing Miu Miu. She’s been behind the brands since 1978, after inheriting it from her grandfather. She is co-directing the brands with her husband as she designs and supervises everything.

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So, do we have a decisive conclusion? Probably not.

Maybe not everyone can get a hold of the fashion world at its modern pace. I’ve said more than once that high fashion and luxury should not be forced to be taken in this excessively fast paced environment, but fashion is a form of expression for each individual and it is in fashion’s DNA to adapt to the time being. It responds to people’s needs and to the social cultural moment. If it stayed behind, it would become instantly obsolete and useless.
Fashion is about talent and creativity, but it also requires a strong visionary temper that withstands critics, pressure and change.

And the ones who want to prevail should consider that things will not be changing for a long time.

Tom Ford’s Disco Party

I distinctly remember, a few years ago, Tom Ford trying to fight off media, specially digital media.

And of course, he soon realized how stupid his attempts were, since digital media is all that we are and know now.

Fortunately, as soon as he made this discovery, he threw in head-first into the digital-social media craze, and carried along the massive amount of muse-celebrities (not that they weren’t with the digital media, but he’s always been surrounded by these people, so he had to bring his brand up to speed), putting the Tom Ford brand back on the spotlight.

Now we are witnessing the digital acceptance in all its glory, with the latest Spring-Summer 2016 video, which was actually the presentation of this collection.

The video is a crazy 70’s disco party, featuring a brow-less, ass-bearing Lady Gaga, as she covers Chic’s “I want your love”
Which is interesting given the fact that the last thing we heard from Gaga was the Tony Bennet collab.

The clothes are amazing. They have, as expected, the 70’s crazy vibe going on. They’s sparkling, and party-ready.

There are also short-short little black dresses, and jewel-military inspired jackets, sweaters,blouses and cargo pants.
There are mini skirts and a ton of snake-print fabric going on. Spikes, metallic outwear, jumpsuits, lace, black white, orange and a ton of leg showing and cleavage are part of these collection, that happens to have Tom Ford written all over, without a doubt.

And as the collection was great and Tom Ford continues to surprises us and be the fashion king he is, be prepared ‘cause I’m pretty sure we’ll be having a 70’s cover album by Lady Gaga, very soon.

Balmain Nation, indeed 

H&M campaign for Balmain has been released, even though we’ve already been exposed to some of Rousteing’s creations.

As expected, Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn and Kendall Jenner are featured in the “urban” Balmain campaign.

A ton of faux fur and jewel toned clothes can be expected, as well as short and sexy dresses and skirts.

This is a sure bet for H&M, ‘cause this is going to be HUGE.

We are all waiting for November, dear H&M… 

   
    
   

Chanel’s Rose

Here’s Lili-Rose Depp as the new face for Chanel.

I should remind you this is the 16 year old daughter of Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis.

And she was part of the “party people playing at the Casino” at the Chanel’s Haute Couture presentation.

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Haute Couture, my love! Ep. 2

In no way will I discredit any of the other beautiful collections I wrote about, but Zuhair Murad and Valentino went out of their way this time with theirs.

This collections are just perfect, each in its way. And believe me, I have not liked a Valentino collection for a long time, this one I would wear for sitting in my living room.

Zuhair Murad chose his inspiration from the nocturnal sky. I may be incredibly biased this time, since I love stars. And the Murad creations fit me like a glove. They are, as usual, very feminine, very red-carpet-ready; with that princess feel and the added stared tiaras and belts. He used sheer fabric as tulle and organza with a lot more flow. Murad used some color and went for the palazzo figure in some cases, which is his innovation. It is a clear gesture for the 70’s trend that’s going on.
For the rest, expect a lot of these outfits in the events and red carpets to come.

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Since Valentino Garavani stepped down from the Creative Direction of his own brand and left Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, I lost most of my faith in the italian Maison. The couple has had some very unusual choices when it comes to the collections. As opposed to Garavani that designed for very bold, sexy women. Chiuri and Picciolini have chosen nude tones and  darker palettes, as well as looser silhouettes. They’ve gone with weird prints and inspirations. This is the very first time that those two have made me love a collection. Again, I may be biased since I prefer the roman inspiration (asymmetrical shoulders, the gladiator flats, the waisted dresses, and toga-like dresses; even the gladiator look-a-like short dresses). And this collection was clearly a celebration of the roman legacy of the brand, where Valentino first founded it on 1960. It has all the elements of the tradicional roman style, with very sheer fabrics, a bolder look for Valentino now.

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Haute Couture, my love!

I get really excited every time Haute Couture begins. This week really allows the whole fashion industry to dream big, to turn fashion into art, and to determine almost every trend that we’ll be seeing the next year.

And this is sure a very particular Haute Couture Week. Giorgio Armani avoided his usual extra minimal creations and shocked in pop pink, metallic shades and fluffy coats. Karl Lagerfeld designed a jacket with 3D laser for Chanel, and celebrated his 50th anniversary as Creative Director of Fendi with a collection that has PETA crawling up the walls.
Viktor & Rolf showed literal “Wearable Art”, modifying the creations directly on the runway.
And trends are running a little wild for Fall&Winter 2015. A LOT of flowers and bright colors, specially bright pink, orange and gold. There are tons of sheer fabrics and cut outs, with those 70’s silhouettes that most brands hinted last season. 70’s is going on strong and fluorescent 80’s are well on their way. Also, Fur. Fur everywhere. Not only on Fendi’s Haute Fourrure collection, but almost in every runway, so get ready for some serious PETA fury, and tons of horrific posts on every single social network.
I have to say, this is some great Couture.

Karl Lagerfeld celebrated his 50th anniversary leading Fendi. This is also the first time the Roman based maison has a Haute Couture collection, which makes it even more special. Since the announcement, The Kaiser called it “Haute Fourrure” given the amount of fur he would show, and he was not kidding. This collection was different to the rest because it was mostly black and white, mixing chinchilla, sable, mink with feathers, seemingly plastic fabrics, diagonal lines and thigh high printed boots.
This is luxury and excess at its very best.

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What can you say about the Enfant Terrible of Fashion? Jean Paul Gaultier decided to stop working on his Pret A Porter collection and give his full attention to his Haute Couture. I’m sure there a lot of women disappointed, but the man is just as talented as he’s ever been. The collection has a clear nautical influence, but it is colorful, filled with gold-thread embroidery and with big weird head pieces. A lot of geometrical cuts, mixed textures and fun. You could feel the positive, fun emotion that surrounded the creations.

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I have to be honest. I’ve never really liked a Viktor&Rolf collection, and maybe because they have this abstract art vision towards fashion. This particular collection made that statement obvious. The pair has also ditched their Pret A Porter collection to focus on their “Fashion is Art” concept. They called this one: Wearable Art, and it could not have a better name. Viktor and Rolf were over the runway, fixing the dresses right there. You can see it.

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Alexis Mabille elebrated 10 years as a Couturier and has received the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres distinction. For this collection he called 15 of his muses, among them Ditta Von Teese and Berenice Bejo and portrayed them as the true people who wears these clothes, as the heart of couture. Photographer Matthew Brookes made an awesome job.

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Elie Saab has a very clear formula for his collections. He’s Red-Carpet-perfect-choice. The sequins and beads embroidered dresses with that ethereal feel and princess-like luscious fabrics makes you feel like you could wear each dress to just be around in your house, and feel like you’re the queen of everything. This time, Saab tried some palazzos which is the novelty, and those black gowns with the flowers… Trust me, we’ll be seeing a lot of these on the red carpets to come.

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Maison Margiela was without a doubt the place for John Galliano to make a full come back. The ability to experiment with fabrics, textures, images and contradictions that already came in the DNA of the maison were just the place to bring back the immense talent that Galliano has. And when I say contradictions, I mean a dress made of what could have been a bag for potatoes, to “origami-like” printed dresses

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Alexandre Vauthier chose Los Angeles as the muse of this collection. And fringes, fringes all over. At the edge of a dress, from the belts on the shoes. It empowers a woman who wants to feel like a sexy rockstar with cut outs, thigh high slits and super short skirts, very LA if you ask me.

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Mr. Armani shocked his audience as he drifted away from his usual minimalistic ways towards a very early 80’s bright colored collection, with a Punk feel to it. Filled with feathers and bright sequins, blue, green and pink over green and making an ombre appearance. It was an odd choice for Armani, even though the silhouettes of the gowns and the jackets clearly had the Armani seal all over.

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Bouchra Jarrar up until now, designed for the working every day woman. And the clothes were beautiful and functional, but this time she went for a younger woman, with crop tops and pleated sheer skirts over short ones. There was a lot of fur, even in the crossed crop tops, mixed with big waisted pants.

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This Fall, Chanel was showing in a Casino. Kristen Stewart, Geraldine Chaplin, Rinko Kikuchi, Rita Ora, Lara Stone, Vanessa Paradis and Julianne Moore played at the tables, while the models walked around with Lagerfeld’s creations.
Since he also showed his very first jacket cut out by 3D laser, the whole collection had that “machine over man” theme going on. With a classic Chanel and incredibly oversized coats and jackets, but doll-like cheeks, lips and hair.

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My dear Giamba, always so beautiful and so great. Giambattista Valli has this classic italian work and he mixes it with his inspirations. This time, he went for Talitha Pol and Syd Barrett, some psychedelic view with bright colors and textures, and those huge dark shades. From the short feathered dresses, to the long and incredibly big fluffy gowns and that long black dress with flowers. You just fall in love with all of it.

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Alberta Ferretti is also a new addition to the Haute Couture Week, with her Limited Edition line. And I saw this one before, and I think it is perfect. It came out of a glorious french palais, and it actually did ‘cause Alberta has moved her atelier to a french chateau, that once belonged to the Rotchschilds, at Rue Faubourg Saint Honore. It has the baroque, and the feminine. It is delicate and sweet, and it has an immense amount of artisan craftsmanship. It is beautiful.

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Raf Simmons has taken his place at Dior perfectly, I just don’t think this was his best work. The environment created for the collection was a sign for big things to come, and yet I was not that greatly surprised. The big coats, the white loose dresses, that seemed like old night gowns. The crystal sequined dresses, and the ones with the flowers were nice, but for me it felt a little lost. Like the pieces didn’t quite match.

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I believe I forgot that Marco Zanini left the creative direction of Schiaparelli, and from here, it looks like the very best thing that could’ve happened to the brand of my dear Schiap. Bertrand Guyon stepped up and took over the collection, and I think this one has got it right. The values, the muscles that conform the Schiaparelli brand. The quirky and the elaborated, from the prints on the dresses to the head pieces, the diverse influences, the man has the right idea.

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Ulyana Sergeenko has gone from really weird to chosen by Rihanna for her crazy videos. The woman takes all her inspirations from her homeland, this time from the Soviet Russia, with a very elegant point of view and a naughty one, with sheer pieces and showing a lot more skin that ever before. Maybe that’s another reason why she caught Rihanna’s eye.

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I’ve said ti before, and I will say it again: Donatella has made some great work with Versace. She’s kept the theatricality that Gianni had, but the clothes have a lot more understanding. They are sexy and bold, and yet they have that quality, that feminine trait. This time, Donatella went full 70’s flower child, with a twist. 25,000 orchids filled the crystal runway, as they made the silhouette of the Versace Medusa on the back, where all the models came from. And they had flowers on their heads, and their backs and they seemed to form the strings that kept the pieces together. It was simple and strong as most things in nature do.

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Mamma e famiglia

I just love the latest Dolce&Gabbana collection, maybe a little more than the last 2, which have been great.

The fact that you could see little babies and toddlers as well as pregnant models over the runway wearing their fantastic outfits, was amazing to say the least.

And now, the ad campaign has that “famiglia italiana” vibe going on, and it’s beautiful.

Let’s not forget that after this collection, Domenico Dolce made some unfortunate comments about families that angered Sir Elton John. That crazy controversy died down long before having long lasting effects over the brand and its designers.

Enjoy the ads 

  

Jeremy Scott’s people

So this is the trailer for Jeremy Scott’s documentary, called The People’s Designer.

I do believe that Jeremy Scott has brought the attention of everyone toward his designs and creations, since he developed the first Adidas Sneaker, up until his naming as Moschino’s creative Director, and let’s face it, he has brought back Moschino from the fashion abysm.

Now Moschino has strong brand ambassadors, Katy Perry, Madonna to name a few. And the Sponge Bob, Barbie and really extravagant pop culture figures captured on the clothes are certainly Scott’s seal as he loves to have fun with fashion and mock the apparent rigid structure.

But he’s not a “people’s designer”. He designs for the bold, for the quirky, for the extravagant and the edgy-crazy ones, but the ones that can actually afford Moschino or $250 adidas sneakers.

I understand that he had a dream, and he came from a hard environment, but he’s so far away from that that I don’t think he even notices it anymore.

Watch the trailer and let’s wait for the full documentary.

When Versace met Givenchy

This is the latest Givenchy Ad, featuring the Creative Director of the Italian house of Versace, Donatella Versace.

Donatella has turned Gianni’s creation into a bigger, international and far more accepted brand than it was when he was alive. Let’s not take this the wrong way, Gianni was a genius and a true fashion talent, but his heart was set on bigger creations, costumes for theater and opera. He aimed for something far more theatrical, something that allowed him to dress up everything and everyone. His brand would have soon become very small for him, had he had the chance.

Donatella has had better vision to grow the brand, it already has a place again on the Haute Couture Week. And it has a very strong presence in almost every red carpet around the world.

Plus, and this you can take as me being a little biased, they are italian, and I happen to love almost everything italian.

Italians have this way of being really attached to their traditions (something I can relate to as a mexican), and they stand together, most of the time (and Mexicans should learn some of that) So it makes some sense that Ricardo Tisci chose her as Givenchy’s face for the latest ad campaign.

And I also believe that this is also a sign for the largest maisons standing together as the true origin of fashion and trends, and not as irrationally fighting fast fashion, which they can’t and shouldn’t.

There’s a ton of messages to be read from the image, but it is certainly interesting

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Anteriores Entradas antiguas

En el pasado…

What’s all about