Couture NOW! ep.2

Sure you remember Guo Pei, the chinese couturier that came to the light after dressing Rihanna, in that golden yellow cape dress at the Met Gala.

Well, after that priceless recommendation, and the MAC reaffirmation collab, the world is watching now.

The talented woman has now shown her latest work, and it is just every bit as amazing as that Rihanna moment.

The craftsmanship, the volume, the colors, the head embellishments, the exuberant work.

Guo Pei is showing her talents in a big way now.


Couture NOW!

There’s a reason still for Couture to be fashion’s biggest moment, and it is this: Couture is the true moment of inspiration and artistic creation.
It is the pioneer of trends and the true showcase for the talent of the couturier to come out in full bloom.

Here’s a nice example, Iris Van Herpen with a clear inspiration of all things from the sea, even the foam and bubbles.


Gucci’s Florence

Remember Florence Welch wearing that 70’s boho-chic Gucci dress at the Grammy Awards? The soft pink one, with stars and flowers, with the shiny embellishments?

Yes, I’m sure you remember, as you could easily know that it was an Alessandro Michele’s creation. And as once Florence was the muse for Karl Lagerfeld, she is now the unofficial Michele’s muse, as she will be the italian brand watches’ ambassador.

And Michele has started to design the costumes for the Florence + The Machine tour “How Beautiful”, set to begin at some point this year.

Check some of the drawings.

Grammy’s Fashion

Fashion at the Grammys usually goes a little crazy, ‘cause it’s all about the music and it can get alternative and different to the rest of the Award Ceremonies.

That means that a lot of what you see is plain horrible. And the rest gets it right.

Taylor Swift in Atelier Versace, getting it right, baring abs and getting bright color blocking just right, with the new bob.

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Selena Gomez in a Calvin Klein bright blue gown, with cut outs. This girl still has a lot to learn about not looking like her mother and trying something that’s really for her, but this dress was  good choice.

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Adele went for a black Givenchy and I believe it was a right choice. Maybe not really daring, but good.

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Florence Welch wearing Gucci. And as I saw her, I definitely understood Alessandro Michele’s target. People like Florence. I wouldn’t wear that boho chic dress, with the flounces and the shiny stars and ribbons, but it is totally Florence, and now I get it.

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And Kacey Musgrave, wearing Armani Privé in such a wonderful way. This is just a perfect red carpet gown.

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An ode to slow Haute Fashion

So, the fashion industry has been experiencing some serious turmoil with the designers resigning, and maisons left without creative direction.

There are numerous reasons for a designer to leave. The discrepancies with the financial direction, the creative limitations or just a fight with the brand director. Case in point: Alber Elbaz. This is an ongoing fight, given that after his exit from Lanvin, his creative team has been very outspoken of their not so loved direction.

The rumor mill has it that Stefano Pilati is leaving Ermenegildo Zegna for Lanvin. So we haven’t hear the last from this particular case.

Now, there’s a new case of designers leaving and having issues with the brands, given the pace that fashion has come to thanks to fast fashion (we are looking at you Inditex and H&M). The luxury houses have to take on a much faster pace in order to catch up with the created demand of trends from the consumer, and the fact that fast fashion steals some inspiration, doesn’t make things any easier.

Designers who are artists first and foremost, are succumbing to the pressure of not having real time to look out for inspiration and the magic that makes luxury fashion special and different. I’ve written about this and I believe it is right. First, if the industry slowed down, we would be a lot more eco conscious and we’d stop creating obsessive consumption and actually create unique pieces that the people would want.
And there’s the internal job of the artist, of the creative process. If they have to put out around 6+ collections every year, there’s no real time to really fill the collections with inspiration and the love of creation that designers can give to their clothes.
Should these concerns go any further, we will be seeing a change very soon.

And now, in an ode for true inspirational, magic fashion, the latest Spring 2016 Haute Couture. You’ll notice the trends (beyond the pale rose and the serenity blue pentanes), we are aiming for colors, for very sheer and see-through fabrics, with a lot of flounces and tassels, mixed textures and flowers (that can’t be left out, because it is spring)

Alberta Ferreti with her Limited Edition, inspired in the Marchesa Luisa Casati with femme fatale in the 20’s silhouettes with a strong layer of animal inspiration, specially in the accessories.

Jean Paul Gaultier gives an homage to vintage french night life in his very particular way, enjoying that he no longer has his pet a porter line, and he can go all out and have fun and make great pieces in Couture.

Alexandre Vauthier just goes out for the sensual woman living the nightlife and enjoying herself. She’s a team and she’s elegant all in one. there are some powerful statements in this collection. And a lot of red carpet possibilities.

Armani Privé gives a sense of continuing his latest Couture collection that had flowy and soft, delicate fabrics with soft prints but this time he went for the mauve tone, going for lilac. And frills, bubble skirts and dresses. And the very trendy flats with straps.

Karl Lagerfeld is going eco friendly with Chanel, or as much as the brand is able to. He went for wild cotton and other natural fabrics, without forgetting the traditional Chanel linings, mixing them up with long printed playful dresses and some 20’s inspiration.

Dior has been left without a Creative Director. The kids who were working with Raf Simmons took over this collection whilst the direction looks for an appropriate designer. And of course, the result is that the brand suffers. This collection is not bad, it is just flat, there’s nothing surprising, nothing Dior-like but the basic guide lines. I don’t see Dior doing so well this time.

Elie Saab is changing. Or at least, the inspirations have changed. India meets boho-chic this could’ve been called. And it is just wonderful. It is the proof of craftsmanship, and shiny boots that everybody will love. Enjoy the flowy fabrics, the sari-like crossing, the beading and the embellishments, the show jackets with long necks and sheerness.

Giambattista Valli also homaged Paris (due to the terrorists attacks back in November), through its gardens and its flowers. And an encore from the last collection, Remember Rihanna in the huge pink layers tulle dress? Well, there’s a new version, with a black bandeau. It is not so creative, but it is beautiful. Oh, and the skirt with the short front and the long (even train) back are back.

I just don’t really understand Riccardo Tisci. I do not like most of what he’s done for Givenchy, and lately that horrifying lamp-like dress Cate Blanchett wore and the rather ill-fitting green gown that Julianne Moore wore for the SAG Awards. That one is actually in these pictures. It is not a bad dress, but it didn’t fit the redheaded actress right.

Maison Marginal has benefited greatly from the talent of John Galliano. The designer has refrained from his popular antics in the runway, and has found a way to mix the Marginal values with his own. As you know Margiela values are a little weird, and you can add to that the magnificent Galliano creations. There’s texturing, there are weird mixes and matches and some are big. And the boots are to die for.

Bertrand Guyon has also been a good match for Schiaparelli. He seems to understand the influences and inspirations that come with the brand. And this time, food and the lobster dress were the prime focus. All the elements of a picnic, including the blanket are included in the clothes, and it is a lot of fun.

I’ve always liked Ulyana Sergeenko’s collections. They have all that russian thing going on, and also that touch of femme fatale. The first collections were a little slow, and then they picked up. These one, I just didn’t get. There were corsets, and lingerie popping out, and 80’s trends, and country dresses. There was no common thread, no sense of order. It never built up ‘cause there was no where to go.

I love Valentino once more. The fact that Chiuri and Piccioli are aiming for their roman background has made their collections just the more beautiful. The last greek-roman one was just great, and this one is also fantastic. They went for a little baroque, but they kept the feminine, the sensual, the delicate and elegant, and the beautiful accessories featuring old coins, even in the feet.

Donatella Versace has gone to the vault of inspiration and it may have not been as good as they thought. The white suits with popping bright colors and slits are a good way to go, and even some of the roman inspired dresses, also rather colorful (like the one Brie Larson wore). But then there were all those weird Swarovski straps coming and going, like tying up the dresses pieces of a dress are a little bit too much. It is going for sensual and sexy to plain tacky. Maybe it’s time to back down a little.

Viktor and Rolf, as far as I’m concerned, do not design clothes to be worn, but to be seen as pieces of art. And this time, Pablo Picasso was the biggest influence. The eyes, the mouths, the heads, even the boobs were all marked out on very white canvas. Even over the models’ faces. It is interesting how art truly translates into fashion, the way Viktor & Rolf do it.

Zuhair Murad is a master of red carpet creations. The clothes are just picture perfect, and actually really beautiful. The dresses are dreamy, and this occasion is no exception. With the corsets and skirts worn by Elizabeth I and the english court of the time, the embroidered fabrics and the lace have a huge moment. Do not miss the wedding gown at the grand finale. Another master creation of artisan hands and dedication.





Zoolander taking over the world

Vogue features in their last magazine none other than Ben Stiller in his fashionista role Derek Zoolander, and his leading lady, Penelope Cruz.
As you may remember Zealander was the comedy that Stiller made about male models, and it became a big deal.

Several years later, Stiller and his buddy Owen Wilson made a first appearance at a Valentino male runway as a first approach to the second movie about Zoolander and Han Solo.

Continuing with the craziness, Anne Winter is featuring Zoolander on the February Vogue cover and prime photoshoot.

And I say, it was about time that fashion could be able to have a lot more fun, and laugh a little about itself. These are incredible pictures for a fashion comedy, with a true fashionista outcome.

This is just the beginning

As you must know by now, The Golden Globes were yesterday night.

So, of course, we have a ton of fashion break down from the Red Carpet.

I have to say there were more rights than wrongs, but one of the worst looks came from Cate Blanchett. I’ve said it before, and I will say it again, this woman has style and takes a lot of risks that make fashion fun, but this time was a huge NO, NEVER AGAIN.

The pink frilled Givenchy was terrifying to say the least. It was like an ode to the twenties mixed with cabaret and a granny look gone wrong. The hair was off as well.

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Rooney Mara is always weird, I just don’t get that obsession of wearing dresses that are the same as your skin tone. It rarely looks good, even if you’re wearing Alexander McQueen.

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Jennifer Lawrence was my favorite in a hot red Dior with obliques cut outs, and that huge Chopard necklace. She was edgy and elegant, and fun.

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Brie Larson went for the golden trend and the cut outs, that seemingly will never leave. I loved the dress, I just think she could’ve gone for a different hairdo, that would’ve paired better with the Calvin Klein daring gown

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Lady Gaga wore a black velvet Atelier Versace. She looked good, just not great as people are saying. I’m sorry, the hair was a little weird, as well as the overdone make up.  I think everyone thinks she looks perfect, given the fact that she’s worn meat.

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Katy Perry wore a simple pink Prada gown. Weird for her, and weird for the italian Maison known for the extravagant designs. Katy look very elegant, the hair was cool and the make up was right. I liked it, but didn’t love it

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Alicia Vikander in white pleated Louis Vuitton. If I didn’t know any better, I’d say the dress was made for her. It fitted her perfectly, and expressed simplicity, elegance and even innocence. It was a good choice.

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Kate Hudson in a bare midriff Michael Kors. This cannot be called a gown. It was a long fitted skirt with a bandeau top. It was risky, but Kate pulled it off just right.

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Amy Adams in Atelier Versace. The dress had that crystal beaded detail, and the intense blood orange tone was just right. Amy has improved her style choices.

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Saoirse Ronan wearing Couture Saint Laurent. As we already saw with Vikander and will see it again, the “greek-roman” trend will have a come back. And it is fine, those silhouttes are very flattering if you know how to wear them right. This one even made Saoirse look like a girl, considering the dress was white, she should’ve gone for a little more outstanding make up.

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Emily Rossum in Armani Privé. I have to admit I love the red, and the simplicity, yet it is not one of my favorite dresses. There’s something missing, because I feel it is a little boring this way.

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Lily James in a sheer Marchesa. Following the trend, is this one translucent, one shoulder  “greek-roman” gown.The dress is great, the hair and the make up not so much.

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Kate Winslet goes for the safe bet. Stylish, yet safe that’s what this navy Ralph Lauren says to everyone. Do you think Kate should start taking some risks? And loose the crazy hairdo?

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Julianne Moore is a risk taker. Sometimes she gets it wrong, and some others are incredibly right like this shimmering body hugging navy blue Tom Ford. Even the long straight hair is right.golden-globes-2016-julianne-moore.jpg

Kate Bosworth went also for the shimmering body hugging gown, but chose a pink/reddish Dolce & Gabbana that fitted her perfectly. I’m just not sure of the ultra slick hair.


Olivia Wilde wore a shimmering red Michael Kors that fitted her perfectly. Although the make up was flawless, and she clearly wanted to show off her ombré, the jewels specially the necklace required an up do, so it would really pop up.


This is my favorite. Kirsten Dunst in Valentino. I loved the latest Valentino collection, with the roman trend because it is feminine and elegant and sensual and edgy, some of which Valentino hasn’t been since the departure of Garavani.

The black velvet, plunging cleavage gown was gracefully accompanied by earrings and bracelet. I would have chosen a stronger make up, but she did very well this time.

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David Bowie Dies at 69: A Look Back at His Most Iconic Fashion Moments

Source: David Bowie Dies at 69: A Look Back at His Most Iconic Fashion Moments

Forever Chanel

Here’s the video “Once and Forever” directed by Karl Lagerfeld featuring the always bitch-resting-face Kristen Stewart, as an actress about to make a movie about Coco Chanel.

Once and Forever

Geraldine Chaplin is Coco also, but in her older years


Margiela, I love you

I never really got Maison Margiela’s designs. I probably don’t fully get them now, but that’s another thing that’s great about fashion.

You can fall in love instantly with brands that you don’t understand, but they can surprise you in a fantastic way.

That happened to me today with this Maison Margiela’s dress with textures and the huge cleavage.

I love it now, ‘cause it has shown me that it has a little something for everyone 


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