Natural and textured Spring Couture ’18

Haute Couture is sending a message, maybe not a meditated one, but it was clear. Nature, in most cases, was the inspiration for most collections. The textures, the roots, the flowers, the sky, the movement. In a clear or surreal environment, nature had a leading role in the trends that will be dominating the next year, in the clothes we all be able to wear.

Maybe it is also a cry for the industry to step back and slow down its pace. Many talented designers have resigned their posts due to the pressures of launching 6 different collection, tending to trends, and satisfying the loyal brand customers. And of course, battling the copycats, born and raised with the fast fashion brands, and their pressure to get people something new, every week. True fashion cannot do that, and neither this nature will be able to hold out for long.

Haute Couture is also feeling a lot more optimistic, the collections were full of colors (to the exception of Dior), filled with tulle, frills, sequins, embroidered flowers and a sense of lightweight, and a clear nod to the female empowerment. Many of the couturiers opted to show more pants, even tuxedo constructions owned by the softness, lightness and femininity. This is also a repercussion of all the social movements and distresses that we’ve been witnessing or have been a part of for the last year. Let there not be a doubt that fashion is a strong way to express one self for the human being.

Beyond all these meditations, the trends are clear, so get ready. Texture, a lot of it,  nature related, specially. Feathers, frills, embroidered flowers, and tulle will be making a strong come back, as well as some color block and as Galliano clearly stated with his Margiella collection, clothes that will shimmer with light.

An ode to slow Haute Fashion

So, the fashion industry has been experiencing some serious turmoil with the designers resigning, and maisons left without creative direction.

There are numerous reasons for a designer to leave. The discrepancies with the financial direction, the creative limitations or just a fight with the brand director. Case in point: Alber Elbaz. This is an ongoing fight, given that after his exit from Lanvin, his creative team has been very outspoken of their not so loved direction.

The rumor mill has it that Stefano Pilati is leaving Ermenegildo Zegna for Lanvin. So we haven’t hear the last from this particular case.

Now, there’s a new case of designers leaving and having issues with the brands, given the pace that fashion has come to thanks to fast fashion (we are looking at you Inditex and H&M). The luxury houses have to take on a much faster pace in order to catch up with the created demand of trends from the consumer, and the fact that fast fashion steals some inspiration, doesn’t make things any easier.

Designers who are artists first and foremost, are succumbing to the pressure of not having real time to look out for inspiration and the magic that makes luxury fashion special and different. I’ve written about this and I believe it is right. First, if the industry slowed down, we would be a lot more eco conscious and we’d stop creating obsessive consumption and actually create unique pieces that the people would want.
And there’s the internal job of the artist, of the creative process. If they have to put out around 6+ collections every year, there’s no real time to really fill the collections with inspiration and the love of creation that designers can give to their clothes.
Should these concerns go any further, we will be seeing a change very soon.

And now, in an ode for true inspirational, magic fashion, the latest Spring 2016 Haute Couture. You’ll notice the trends (beyond the pale rose and the serenity blue pentanes), we are aiming for colors, for very sheer and see-through fabrics, with a lot of flounces and tassels, mixed textures and flowers (that can’t be left out, because it is spring)

Alberta Ferreti with her Limited Edition, inspired in the Marchesa Luisa Casati with femme fatale in the 20’s silhouettes with a strong layer of animal inspiration, specially in the accessories.

Jean Paul Gaultier gives an homage to vintage french night life in his very particular way, enjoying that he no longer has his pet a porter line, and he can go all out and have fun and make great pieces in Couture.

Alexandre Vauthier just goes out for the sensual woman living the nightlife and enjoying herself. She’s a team and she’s elegant all in one. there are some powerful statements in this collection. And a lot of red carpet possibilities.

Armani Privé gives a sense of continuing his latest Couture collection that had flowy and soft, delicate fabrics with soft prints but this time he went for the mauve tone, going for lilac. And frills, bubble skirts and dresses. And the very trendy flats with straps.

Karl Lagerfeld is going eco friendly with Chanel, or as much as the brand is able to. He went for wild cotton and other natural fabrics, without forgetting the traditional Chanel linings, mixing them up with long printed playful dresses and some 20’s inspiration.

Dior has been left without a Creative Director. The kids who were working with Raf Simmons took over this collection whilst the direction looks for an appropriate designer. And of course, the result is that the brand suffers. This collection is not bad, it is just flat, there’s nothing surprising, nothing Dior-like but the basic guide lines. I don’t see Dior doing so well this time.

Elie Saab is changing. Or at least, the inspirations have changed. India meets boho-chic this could’ve been called. And it is just wonderful. It is the proof of craftsmanship, and shiny boots that everybody will love. Enjoy the flowy fabrics, the sari-like crossing, the beading and the embellishments, the show jackets with long necks and sheerness.

Giambattista Valli also homaged Paris (due to the terrorists attacks back in November), through its gardens and its flowers. And an encore from the last collection, Remember Rihanna in the huge pink layers tulle dress? Well, there’s a new version, with a black bandeau. It is not so creative, but it is beautiful. Oh, and the skirt with the short front and the long (even train) back are back.

I just don’t really understand Riccardo Tisci. I do not like most of what he’s done for Givenchy, and lately that horrifying lamp-like dress Cate Blanchett wore and the rather ill-fitting green gown that Julianne Moore wore for the SAG Awards. That one is actually in these pictures. It is not a bad dress, but it didn’t fit the redheaded actress right.

Maison Marginal has benefited greatly from the talent of John Galliano. The designer has refrained from his popular antics in the runway, and has found a way to mix the Marginal values with his own. As you know Margiela values are a little weird, and you can add to that the magnificent Galliano creations. There’s texturing, there are weird mixes and matches and some are big. And the boots are to die for.

Bertrand Guyon has also been a good match for Schiaparelli. He seems to understand the influences and inspirations that come with the brand. And this time, food and the lobster dress were the prime focus. All the elements of a picnic, including the blanket are included in the clothes, and it is a lot of fun.

I’ve always liked Ulyana Sergeenko’s collections. They have all that russian thing going on, and also that touch of femme fatale. The first collections were a little slow, and then they picked up. These one, I just didn’t get. There were corsets, and lingerie popping out, and 80’s trends, and country dresses. There was no common thread, no sense of order. It never built up ‘cause there was no where to go.

I love Valentino once more. The fact that Chiuri and Piccioli are aiming for their roman background has made their collections just the more beautiful. The last greek-roman one was just great, and this one is also fantastic. They went for a little baroque, but they kept the feminine, the sensual, the delicate and elegant, and the beautiful accessories featuring old coins, even in the feet.

Donatella Versace has gone to the vault of inspiration and it may have not been as good as they thought. The white suits with popping bright colors and slits are a good way to go, and even some of the roman inspired dresses, also rather colorful (like the one Brie Larson wore). But then there were all those weird Swarovski straps coming and going, like tying up the dresses pieces of a dress are a little bit too much. It is going for sensual and sexy to plain tacky. Maybe it’s time to back down a little.

Viktor and Rolf, as far as I’m concerned, do not design clothes to be worn, but to be seen as pieces of art. And this time, Pablo Picasso was the biggest influence. The eyes, the mouths, the heads, even the boobs were all marked out on very white canvas. Even over the models’ faces. It is interesting how art truly translates into fashion, the way Viktor & Rolf do it.

Zuhair Murad is a master of red carpet creations. The clothes are just picture perfect, and actually really beautiful. The dresses are dreamy, and this occasion is no exception. With the corsets and skirts worn by Elizabeth I and the english court of the time, the embroidered fabrics and the lace have a huge moment. Do not miss the wedding gown at the grand finale. Another master creation of artisan hands and dedication.

 

 

 

 

Haute Couture, my love!

I get really excited every time Haute Couture begins. This week really allows the whole fashion industry to dream big, to turn fashion into art, and to determine almost every trend that we’ll be seeing the next year.

And this is sure a very particular Haute Couture Week. Giorgio Armani avoided his usual extra minimal creations and shocked in pop pink, metallic shades and fluffy coats. Karl Lagerfeld designed a jacket with 3D laser for Chanel, and celebrated his 50th anniversary as Creative Director of Fendi with a collection that has PETA crawling up the walls.
Viktor & Rolf showed literal “Wearable Art”, modifying the creations directly on the runway.
And trends are running a little wild for Fall&Winter 2015. A LOT of flowers and bright colors, specially bright pink, orange and gold. There are tons of sheer fabrics and cut outs, with those 70’s silhouettes that most brands hinted last season. 70’s is going on strong and fluorescent 80’s are well on their way. Also, Fur. Fur everywhere. Not only on Fendi’s Haute Fourrure collection, but almost in every runway, so get ready for some serious PETA fury, and tons of horrific posts on every single social network.
I have to say, this is some great Couture.

Karl Lagerfeld celebrated his 50th anniversary leading Fendi. This is also the first time the Roman based maison has a Haute Couture collection, which makes it even more special. Since the announcement, The Kaiser called it “Haute Fourrure” given the amount of fur he would show, and he was not kidding. This collection was different to the rest because it was mostly black and white, mixing chinchilla, sable, mink with feathers, seemingly plastic fabrics, diagonal lines and thigh high printed boots.
This is luxury and excess at its very best.

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What can you say about the Enfant Terrible of Fashion? Jean Paul Gaultier decided to stop working on his Pret A Porter collection and give his full attention to his Haute Couture. I’m sure there a lot of women disappointed, but the man is just as talented as he’s ever been. The collection has a clear nautical influence, but it is colorful, filled with gold-thread embroidery and with big weird head pieces. A lot of geometrical cuts, mixed textures and fun. You could feel the positive, fun emotion that surrounded the creations.

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I have to be honest. I’ve never really liked a Viktor&Rolf collection, and maybe because they have this abstract art vision towards fashion. This particular collection made that statement obvious. The pair has also ditched their Pret A Porter collection to focus on their “Fashion is Art” concept. They called this one: Wearable Art, and it could not have a better name. Viktor and Rolf were over the runway, fixing the dresses right there. You can see it.

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Alexis Mabille elebrated 10 years as a Couturier and has received the Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres distinction. For this collection he called 15 of his muses, among them Ditta Von Teese and Berenice Bejo and portrayed them as the true people who wears these clothes, as the heart of couture. Photographer Matthew Brookes made an awesome job.

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Elie Saab has a very clear formula for his collections. He’s Red-Carpet-perfect-choice. The sequins and beads embroidered dresses with that ethereal feel and princess-like luscious fabrics makes you feel like you could wear each dress to just be around in your house, and feel like you’re the queen of everything. This time, Saab tried some palazzos which is the novelty, and those black gowns with the flowers… Trust me, we’ll be seeing a lot of these on the red carpets to come.

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Maison Margiela was without a doubt the place for John Galliano to make a full come back. The ability to experiment with fabrics, textures, images and contradictions that already came in the DNA of the maison were just the place to bring back the immense talent that Galliano has. And when I say contradictions, I mean a dress made of what could have been a bag for potatoes, to “origami-like” printed dresses

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Alexandre Vauthier chose Los Angeles as the muse of this collection. And fringes, fringes all over. At the edge of a dress, from the belts on the shoes. It empowers a woman who wants to feel like a sexy rockstar with cut outs, thigh high slits and super short skirts, very LA if you ask me.

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Mr. Armani shocked his audience as he drifted away from his usual minimalistic ways towards a very early 80’s bright colored collection, with a Punk feel to it. Filled with feathers and bright sequins, blue, green and pink over green and making an ombre appearance. It was an odd choice for Armani, even though the silhouettes of the gowns and the jackets clearly had the Armani seal all over.

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Bouchra Jarrar up until now, designed for the working every day woman. And the clothes were beautiful and functional, but this time she went for a younger woman, with crop tops and pleated sheer skirts over short ones. There was a lot of fur, even in the crossed crop tops, mixed with big waisted pants.

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This Fall, Chanel was showing in a Casino. Kristen Stewart, Geraldine Chaplin, Rinko Kikuchi, Rita Ora, Lara Stone, Vanessa Paradis and Julianne Moore played at the tables, while the models walked around with Lagerfeld’s creations.
Since he also showed his very first jacket cut out by 3D laser, the whole collection had that “machine over man” theme going on. With a classic Chanel and incredibly oversized coats and jackets, but doll-like cheeks, lips and hair.

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My dear Giamba, always so beautiful and so great. Giambattista Valli has this classic italian work and he mixes it with his inspirations. This time, he went for Talitha Pol and Syd Barrett, some psychedelic view with bright colors and textures, and those huge dark shades. From the short feathered dresses, to the long and incredibly big fluffy gowns and that long black dress with flowers. You just fall in love with all of it.

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Alberta Ferretti is also a new addition to the Haute Couture Week, with her Limited Edition line. And I saw this one before, and I think it is perfect. It came out of a glorious french palais, and it actually did ‘cause Alberta has moved her atelier to a french chateau, that once belonged to the Rotchschilds, at Rue Faubourg Saint Honore. It has the baroque, and the feminine. It is delicate and sweet, and it has an immense amount of artisan craftsmanship. It is beautiful.

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Raf Simmons has taken his place at Dior perfectly, I just don’t think this was his best work. The environment created for the collection was a sign for big things to come, and yet I was not that greatly surprised. The big coats, the white loose dresses, that seemed like old night gowns. The crystal sequined dresses, and the ones with the flowers were nice, but for me it felt a little lost. Like the pieces didn’t quite match.

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I believe I forgot that Marco Zanini left the creative direction of Schiaparelli, and from here, it looks like the very best thing that could’ve happened to the brand of my dear Schiap. Bertrand Guyon stepped up and took over the collection, and I think this one has got it right. The values, the muscles that conform the Schiaparelli brand. The quirky and the elaborated, from the prints on the dresses to the head pieces, the diverse influences, the man has the right idea.

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Ulyana Sergeenko has gone from really weird to chosen by Rihanna for her crazy videos. The woman takes all her inspirations from her homeland, this time from the Soviet Russia, with a very elegant point of view and a naughty one, with sheer pieces and showing a lot more skin that ever before. Maybe that’s another reason why she caught Rihanna’s eye.

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I’ve said ti before, and I will say it again: Donatella has made some great work with Versace. She’s kept the theatricality that Gianni had, but the clothes have a lot more understanding. They are sexy and bold, and yet they have that quality, that feminine trait. This time, Donatella went full 70’s flower child, with a twist. 25,000 orchids filled the crystal runway, as they made the silhouette of the Versace Medusa on the back, where all the models came from. And they had flowers on their heads, and their backs and they seemed to form the strings that kept the pieces together. It was simple and strong as most things in nature do.

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MET Gala 2015 China: Through the looking glass.

Tonight, The MET hosts fashions biggest party, as it unveils its fashion exhibit.

This year you will be able to see China’s fashion development. And it is always interesting, as the “asian” trend has been off the table for some time now. If you remember, back in the 90’s, we were all wearing those “China inspired” dresses and jackets.

Asian influence also goes to animals and bamboo prints. Sheer, delicate fabrics with a lot of flow, and at the same time, silky body hugging satin and structured taffetas. As it is China, it is mandatory some red and gold. The Invite also included some intricate head embellishments, and flowers. You’ll get it when you see Sarah Jessica Parker, as every other year.

Gold and silver, as well as semi nakedness under shiny embellishments and sheer fabrics, cut outs and some king of crop top were some of the trends on the red carpet.

Let it be said that most of the dresses had no relation whatsoever with China or any asian influence whatsoever, so the theme of the Gala should be stablished sooner so the participants had more time to figure out their dresses.
Rihanna showed up with a Guo Pei Couture gown which is obviously chinese by origin, but if you didn’t know I’m sure you would not figure it out it has any “asian influence”. I have to say that i loved Rihanna wearing the extra fluffy Pink Giambattista Valli, but this yellow giant cape with train and the head piece, and the shiny white sandals, and the necklace were a little bit too much, even for Rihanna who has proven to be able to pull off almost everything.

Let’s see the dresses.

Anne Wintour in Chanel

Anne Wintour in Chanel

Poppy Delevingne in Marchesa

Poppy Delevingne in Marchesa

Katie Holmes in Zac Posen

Katie Holmes in Zac Posen

Diane Kruger in Chanel

Diane Kruger in Chanel

SJP in H&M and Phillip Treacy headpiece

SJP in H&M and Phillip Treacy headpiece

Dolce & Gabbana

Tabitha Simmons in Dolce & Gabbana

Jennifer Lawrence in Dior

Jennifer Lawrence in Dior

Alicia Keys in Jean Paul Gaultier

Alicia Keys in Jean Paul Gaultier

Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren

Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren

Amanda Seyfried in Givenchy

Amanda Seyfried in Givenchy

Georgia May Jagger in Gucci

Georgia May Jagger in Gucci

Rosie Huntington in Versace

Rosie Huntington in Versace

Selena Gomez in Vera Wang

Selena Gomez in Vera Wang

Lilly Collins in Chanel

Lilly Collins in Chanel

Olsen Twins in John Galliano

Olsen Twins in John Galliano

Dakota Johnson in Chanel

Dakota Johnson in Chanel

Kate Hudson in Michael Kors

Kate Hudson in Michael Kors

Donna Karan & Calvin Klein

Donna Karan & Calvin Klein

Jennifer López in Versace

Jennifer López in Versace

Emily Blunt in Prada

Emily Blunt in Prada

Katy Perry in Moschino

Katy Perry in Moschino

Kim Kardashian in Cavalli

Kim Kardashian in Cavalli

Madonna in Moschino

Madonna in Moschino

Rita Ora in Tom Ford

Rita Ora in Tom Ford

Miley Cirus in Alexander Wang

Miley Cirus in Alexander Wang

Reese Witherspoon in Jason Wu

Reese Witherspoon in Jason Wu

Lady Gaga in Balenciaga

Lady Gaga in Balenciaga

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture

Cara Delevingne in Stella McCartney

Cara Delevingne in Stella McCartney

Beyoncé in Givenchy

Beyoncé in Givenchy

Olivia Wilde in Prada

Olivia Wilde in Prada

FKA Twigs in Christopher Kane

FKA Twigs in Christopher Kane

Solange Knowles in Giles Deacon

Solange Knowles in Giles Deacon

Cher in Marc Jacobs

Cher in Marc Jacobs

Allison Williams in Giambattista Valli

Allison Williams in Giambattista Valli

Amal Clooney in Martin Margiela by John Galliano

Amal Clooney in Maison Margiela by John Galliano

Kerry Washington in Prada

Kerry Washington in Prada

Sienna Miller in Thakoon

Sienna Miller in Thakoon

Joan Smalls in Burberry

Joan Smalls in Burberry

Rose Byrne in Calvin Klein Collection

Rose Byrne in Calvin Klein Collection

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Roland Mouret

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Roland Mouret

Zendaya in Fausto Puglisi

Zendaya in Fausto Puglisi

Carey Mulligan in Balenciaga

Carey Mulligan in Balenciaga

Karlie Kloss & Gigi Hadid

Karlie Kloss & Gigi Hadid

Lisa Bonet & Lenny Kravitz

Lisa Bonet & Lenny Kravitz

Lorde in Calvin Klein

Lorde in Calvin Klein

Uma Thurman in Atelier Versace

Uma Thurman in Atelier Versace

Kristen Wiig in Prabal Gurung

Kristen Wiig in Prabal Gurung

Keri Russell in Altuzarra

Keri Russell in Altuzarra

Julianne Moore in Givenchy

Julianne Moore in Givenchy

Liu Wen in Michael Kors

Liu Wen in Michael Kors

Jessica Chastain in Givenchy

Jessica Chastain in Givenchy

Claire Danes in Valentino

Claire Danes in Valentino

Jennifer Connelly in Louis Vuitton

Jennifer Connelly in Louis Vuitton

Helen Mirren

Helen Mirren

Rachel Weisz in Chanel Couture

Rachel Weisz in Chanel Couture

Kate Beckinsale in Diane Von Fustenberg

Kate Beckinsale in Diane Von Fustenberg

Karen Elson in Dolce & Gabbana

Karen Elson in Dolce & Gabbana

Some may be missing, but you get the point.

Remember that the MET announced that they would ban any social media posting, but apparently that isn’t working effectively since Madonna, Katy Perry and Lady Gaga have already released a picture of themselves inside the party. So let’s stay tuned to see how these people can survive in their naked dresses.

Fashion at the Grammy Awards

In every red carpet season, people awaits for Grammys ‘cause the music industry has a little room for improvising and making weird statements with their clothes. It’s kind of expected, but sometimes this leisure can be stretched way too much.

As you saw in the Haute Couture Week, the “Mirror Ball look” will be a thing, as well as fringes with beading.

Metallic keeps going on, as extreme cut outs.

I will keep it short

I loved Rihanna in Giambattista Valli. You need that kind of personality to pull off such a complicated tulle-filled princess pink dress. And she did good with so little make up, because the dress was enough.

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Gwen Stefani was remarkable in both red and black Versace. The black was the Atelier dress turned into jumpsuit, but that has also been a trend of every red carpet so far. So it was a great choice. I’m not sure I liked the nude lips, but I’m sure I loved the red hot lips with the red dress.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Miley Cirus Decided to ditch her “forever redneck” style for a night and went for a Couture Alexandre Vauthier. Even with the extreme cut outs, she kept it elegant, specially because she had something on. Again, I would have made the make up pop up a little more, but when it comes to Miley, it is just fine.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Taylor Swift is making such a great style for herself. This teal Elie Saab with the purple sandals was just a great choice. It fits her right, the colors favor her a lot, and the rend with the long skirt in the front and the long train on the back is here to stay. Very nice hair and make up, as usual too.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Beyonce wore her extensions proudly and rightly with the bright black Proenza Schouler, with that plunging cleavage. She also went for the “barely there” make up and it serves her right, ‘cause sparking beaded dresses do not need more help.

Beyonce

I love Chrissy Teigen. She has a beautiful body, she knows it, she’s very confident and she wears everything just right. She’s a married lady and yet she’s not afraid to go a little sexy, without going insane. White is also a trend, and this Emilio Pucci was a good choice.

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I am not sure about Katy Perry’s sparkling fringed Zuhair Murad. Maybe it was the purple hair that threw everything off for me, or the nose ring (it is just too late for her to go down that road), or that face as if she was under the influence of strong medication. I wasn’t convinced at all.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Rita Ora has always had weird fashion choices, to say the least. This “mirror ball” Prada, and that pixie that had some long parts just don’t work at all. And the crystals make her look disproportioned, or maybe that is just and effect but who would wanna look bad in such an occasion?

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Lady Gaga went for the “Mirror Ball effect” too, but with scales, and a plunging neckline, and a hight thigh slit, and a huge emerald between her breasts, because the dress wasn’t shiny enough. But let’s remember this is the woman who wore a meat dress before, so this falls under the “We’ll go with it and let it go” category.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Oh my beloved Madge. Once you saw her onstage with the red matador Dolce&Gabbana, you could make some sense out of the “matador” sparkling Givenchy for the red carpet. But still it was such a bad idea. The ass bearing, the black vail under the torero hat, too much and not in a good way.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Iggy Azalea just proved that you can ruin a perfect Armani gown with a horrible hairdo. And that’s just how it went down, she had that braided hat and ruined the Armani royal blue gown, with the cut outs, the sheer fabric over her feet and that “no make up” was the worn choice for this. She wasn’t wearing accessories and the dress was left alone with horrible hair.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

Nicki Minaj also went for the “wardrobe malfunction happening any moment”, with this black Tom Ford with beaded fringes. She did a little better with the accessories, but not the make up.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

And last, but the worst outfit of the night is never least, was Kim Kardashian ruining another great designers work, this time Jean Paul Gaultier, with that ass clown bath robe also in the wardrobe malfunction category (but we know she loves to have the first spot in that place). Too much “emo” hair, too much make up, excessive shoulder pads, bags and cuffs. Again, wrong and horrible.

The 57th Annual GRAMMY Awards - Red Carpet

SAG Awards

So we’re getting closer to the Grammy’s and the Oscar Awards, but the rest have given away some of this spring’s fashion.

I have to say that some are looking a LOT better than they did at the People’s Choice Awards. Yes, I’m talking about Claire Danes, and Kiera Knightley, both leaving behind their amish look-a-likes, and coming back to normal. Even though we saw yellow and white as a trend, here we can see the emerald green, which happens to be a very noble jewel tone as it fits almost every skin tone, and also allows you to make different decisions when it comes to make up.

Another trend is print, colourful prints and flowers (not surprisingly as spring is coming our way, some time soon).

So here are some of what I believe are the best dressed of the evening

Jennifer Aniston in Vintage John Galliano, which happens to also be a trend now the designer has made such a come back to the fashion scene.

Reese Witherspoon in a one shoulder custom white Armani, with embroidered crystals.

Naomi Watts in navy blue Balenziaga, and her Bulgari jewels

Lupita Nyong’o seizing the colourful pattern of this Ellie Saab.

Emma Stone in Haute Couture Dior, with the sheer black skirt.

Julia Roberts in a black pantsuit from… you guessed it, Givenchy. Let’s not forget about those make up free ads, that were a little eery

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Now, the ones that did good, but not great

Julianne Moore in emerald green beaded Givenchy. I don’t think the fitting was right, I mean loose dresses are cool, but not for everybody.

Claire Danes in emerald green Marc Jacobs. Just improving the horrible Valentino she wore the last time.

Rosamund Pike in Dior, with the puffy black things attached to the dress, and the long train, and the short front. I didn’t like this one in the runway, and I still don’t like it now.

Kiera Knightley in eggplant Erdem, with the lace, the embroidered and the layers it is absolutely and improvement from the amish-like Chanel.

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I’m still figuring out why I don’t like this royal blue Gambattista Valli on Julianna Margulies. Something is off, Maybe it’s the lack of accessories, maybe it is because it seems like she’s not wearing a bra and everything is hanging, maybe is the hair. I just don’t like it, and I do believe it’s a beautiful dress.

21st Annual Screen Actors Guild Awards - Red Carpet

Camila Alves and Matthew McConaughey. Alves looks ok in that purple mermaid shaped Donna Karan Atelier, but what is going on in Matthew’s head? Why does she allows him to go out, looking like he made a run from the Thunder Down Under?

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Fashion Week

I seriously hope you’re not missing out on the fashion weeks.
And in case you have, here are some of the trends you will be wearing the next year:
60’s and 70’s silhouettes, metallic sheer organzas, and a ton of metallic with glitter.
A ton of rock/punk/70’s influence.
Geometric patterns, a lot of mixed textures, simetric and asymmetric cuts, cut outs specially on dresses.
Lots and lots of dresses and short skirts.
And again, the contrast between black & white and bright reds, and pastel tones. And some nudes and beiges.
There were a lot of flower prints in New York, but no so much in the european runways. Not so far, at least.
The circuit is coming to an end in Paris, this week.
Of course, Jeremy Scott brought back the Barbie effect having a lot of fun with fashion and with the social conception of the famous doll.
Moschino would be so proud.
I will be writing a full review on Dolce&Gabbana because as you well know, I love them.
Here are some pictures so you can start falling in love again.
Oh, Giambattista Valli has started his “Giamba” pret a porter line, be ready to love it.

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Couture going on fashionably street

I recently read that if fashion is made out of details, Cuture is made out of dreams. And I firmly believe it. Couture is the fabric of fashion’s biggest dreams.
And it has been proven over and over, now that Couture is going a little street to become a little more modern and a little closer to everyone.
Couture can be inspired by anything, There’s Gaultier who chose vampires, or Raf Simmons who took orchids and Marie Antoinette, or Ulyana Sergeenko, who’s closest inspiration is her motherland Rusia. This time, the revolutionary with a ton of silky fabrics.
We all know that Couture is only available to very few people who get to pay and wear the master creations, but it is also a source of endless inspiration for the more down-to-earth brands and for all of us who understand that fashion is creation, is communication and human expression at its best. And it is artisan craftsmanship work designed by a master fashion mind that makes us dream.

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Alexandre Vauthier is always a constant surprise and delight. He’s all for empowering women, making them look sensual and daring. This collection is not an exception, asymmetric cuts, down-to-the-belly-button necklines, high slit dresses, cut outs and crop tops, he went for a little rock inspiration with a touch of yellow and a spat of embellished very short red dress.I’m pretty sure the geometric patterns haven’t left us completely, since there are some harem pants with that fabric, but it’ll go out quietly soon.

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Bouchra Jarrar went also for the 50’s inspiration in a more true-to-date approach than Donatella. Of course, these pieces are far more tailored and more mixing masculine and feminine, with the bicolor man shoes. asymmetric bicker jackets, with flowy soft skirts and the perfecto pants in flawless satin. For Bouchra it’s just always simple elegance, in a woman who wants to try somethings new, but not go too far.

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The Kaiser again took Chanel to a new place, with the inspiration of architectonic works of Le Corbusier and avoiding the tailoring all together with fabric and intricate sequined pieces glued with silicone, as well as working with materials such as plastic, and suggesting sandals for winter. Then again, this si Karl Lagerfeld we’re talking about, and he can chose to put shorts under short skirts and a pregnant model bride to close his magnificent runway. Do not miss the golden embroidered dresses, the seined and very embellished details and the red. Here are the new trends.

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Unlike John Galliano, who was always up for a good dress up, Raf Simmons goes for the concept that Couture shouldn’t be only for special occasions, but for a daily life use. That is if you are talking about coats, simple dresses, and tailored pants that can be matched with a blouse and things that you can actually wear rather than a huge 18th century Marie Antoinette inspired dress or massive fur coats. This collection is rounded and complete, it is not what you’d expect from Dior, because most of them are just easy, every day wear. But as I was telling you, Couture has now started to take that path.

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My beloved Giambattista. Always going for eccentric looks, inspired this time by moorish and spanish tradition, as well as old Hollywood glamour. A little of a PJ’s wink and a lot of big colorful full skirted dresses, with stripes and embroidered flowers.Those petals and the mohair are just so out of it, and yet so beautiful. We will definitely be seeing a lot of Valli at the red carpets to come.

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As I warned this would happen, Maison Martin Margiela has gone for some creations a tad more wearable that all that crazy which with the mason started. This time they were playing exquisite corpse, which used to be a game surrealists played, by adding a part to a drawing in paper, an d then passing it along to somebody else who had no idea what was there, or what had been added. So yeah, this has Margiela written all over. Again repair in the very beaded, sequined work, we’ll be seeing a lot of that soon.

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Alexis Mabille has gone for the Susan Sontag’s feminine and masculine paradox, or so he said, because the collection is very girly in an old hollywood glam kind of way. To the exception of one pant suit, a huh waisted short and a skin tight jumpsuit, the rest are just perfectly crafted gowns and dresses. Maybe he got the idea wrong, but a job perfectly executed.

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Armani will always go to his comfort zone to start a beautifully crafted Couture runway. The red Lacquer was a main ingredient even when he started with pant suits and very elegant, classical skirts and jackets. And then all went sparkly beaded and tulle madness, with the red as the connecting threat of it all. It’s an experimental ground for everything to come, Armani has left it clear.

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I love Elie Saab, please don’t get me wrong, but he has done the same dresses over and over again for quite sometime now. Tha Couture collection is always aiming for night or formal events, specially those with a red carpet in them. Now he decided that pearls would be the perfect beading for his creations. He’s also going for short dresses for a cocktail event, some ombré effects, and stripes and sheer fabric. But it’s the same thing we’ve been seeing for a while.

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Ulyana Sergeenko went for a dark period at the russian history for inspiration. The time when the last czar was overthrown and the Soviet Union started. It could’ve been more believable if it didn’t all look like femme fatales and James Bond-Like spies. It will remind you a lot of Jean Pal Gautier’s corsets at the beginning of the 90’s decade. She’s going for the right direction, but she needs to find her own voice, sooner rather tha later.

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I have not liked the latest job of Pier Paolo PIccioli and Maria Grazi Chiuri at the head of Valentino. But I am always moved by those who chose to be inspired by their historical roots. This time Chuiri and Picciolini took inspiration from the 19th century reprise of roman togas and pre raphaelites, going back to nature and beauty. Even the production on the runway suggested it right away. This si a much simpler, nicer collection.

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Silver, turquoise, navy blue, and red were the primary tones at the Zuhair Murad architectonic inspired collection, with some geometric patterns and some very structured dresses. The more beautiful ones were those skin tight and the short ones that aimed to a younger type of client. Because, then again Murad is having the Elie Saab Effect, going for his classics, over and over.

Spring 2014 Haute Couture

I am a sick fan of Couture. I believe it is or at least should be the muse and inspiration of true fashion.
It’s the place where fashion truly becomes art, and allows the designer to become the couturier, the highest place in fashion hierarchy.
Not everyone goes the ART way, you can see Maison Martin Margiella, Viktor & Rolf and whatever is it that Marco Zanini was going after with his demi couture for Schiaparelli.
That’s the other thing, as you know Vionnet and Schiaparelli have been brought back to life, but haven’t found the right person to take the lead and figure out the muscle that each brand needs. Christian Lacroix took on the first Schiaparelli collection and as everything with Lacroix it was big, baroque and crazy. Zanini just tried to go with the crazy hats to make it seem a little Schiap. He’s clearly not the one to take on that brand.
Neither are Hussein Chalayan or Goga Ashkenazi for Vionnet, that collection had no direction, no resemblance to the true origins of Madame Vionnet.
Whoever is behind this come backs, has to look harder for designers that understand those roots, and bring them up to speed.

I’m going to simplify this one for you: we are finally leaving those horrible oversized silhouettes and finally returning to the curve hugging fabrics, and elegant and flattering drapings. Showing some skiing is coming back hard.
This spring will be a lot more feminine, not only with the silhouettes, but with the colors. You’ll see jewel tones, but soft pastels will be far more predominant. Flowers are giving a little way for butterflies. Gold will be black’s perfect pair, and animal print (big jungle cat type) will also be leading the trends.

Alexandre Vauthier always appears a little extravagant, but this time it was full on baroque and show off. Jewel tones over luxury silks, tules and braided leathers, with flowy or decadent draping and more skin showing that most of us really want or need. All the outfits were more night and party fitting, almost on the cabaret side of party.
Zuhair Murad gave a professorship on extremely delicate and feminine brocade and lace. Golden feathers accessories were the best companion to his creations. You cannot get more girly that beautiful soft dresses and gowns in pastel.
Whenever I see a Valentino Collection, I wonder what is Valentino Garavani thinking when he sees his brand shattered by Chiuri and Piccioli. Valentino was about sensual, feminine, modern yet elegant pieces. This collection just went all over the crazy. Maria Grazia and PierPaolo were inspired by Opera Arias. I love Opera, I’vee been taught and heard a lot of it since I was a child, and the concept of bringing the theme into Couture seems appropriate and fitting, unless you have crazy satin tigers coming out of the skirts or what appeared to be a potato sack.
Don’t get me wrong, I fully understand the work and craftsmanship being every piece, but the beautiful ones where the least. If they’re going to take cues out of Björk’s closet, they are bound to get it all wrong.
Elie Saab worked what he knows best. Tose beautiful red carpet gowns. But this time he took the time to amaze us all with that greek-roman goddess simple yet elegant dresses, as well as those colorful reverse ombre creations.
Armani decided to leave behind his trade mark grey, swapping them for all the shades of blue and mixing up casual wearable jacket pant suits (another Armani trade mark), with perfectly elegant dresses with a clear gypsy influence.
Bouchra Jarrar just received her haute couture appellation. This appointment makes a strong statement of her work. You can see that her collections are far more wearable than any other Couture one. Yet she choses to mix luxurious fabrics and bring them to and apparent every day use. The palette was as predictable as ever, this woman must hate color, because the one piece that stood out was a simple royal blue maxi dress.
The tormented Ulyana Sergeenko. She’s a newbie in the Couture Circuit, so she falls behind every single season. She was inspired by the Orient Express and the femme fatale silhouette of that time. They were perfectly made, and yet completely off based, with her huge balloon skirts.
I seriously believe she will finally figure it out.
The Kaiser is giving Chanel some really luxurious pairs of tennis. That mix of pastel tweed and sparkling tennis, knee and elbow pads would make Coco die all over again, but it’s a clear way of showing people that the highest fashion is going urban. This trend in particular walked all the way from the street to the highest form of fashion statements. And that is truly remarkable and fantastic.
Lagerfeld also is backing up the return of the tight, body hugging clothes, but then again Karl has a pretty tough stand when it comes to fat people.
The Greek -Roman Goddess trend is coming back with Alexis Mabille and Versace, but in different places. Mabille chose virginal white, with butterflies, long drapes and sheer fabric. Versace took the mewl glam, extra tight fittings to make the goddess stand out from every crowd, and a lot more skin, but at the end of it all, it is Versace.
Giambattista Valli truly loves his flowers, even when it is for bad girls that put on his couture right after a night of disaster. The draped mini skirts are the counterpart of long impecable taffeta gowns, and asymmetrical cocktail dresses.
Raf Simmons is weird. I have no words that match what I truly feel when his Couture collections come up. I’m pretty sure it has to do with all the love I had for Galliano, but this is so far away from the “New Look” Christian Dior origin. It’s technology applied to the best fabrics, and it’s craftsmanship to make them look so perfect, it had movement but the cut work was too much. And the over lapping of texture and fabric seemed like patches.

Alexandre Vauthier Couture S14

Alexis Mabille Couture S14

Armani Privé Couture S14

Atelier Versace Couture S14

Biuchra Jarrar Couture S14

Chanel Couture S14

Christian Dior Couture S14

Elie Saab Couture S14

Giambattista Valli Couture S14

Maison Martin Margiela Couture S14

Schiaparelli Couture S14

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture S14

Valentino Couture S14

Viktor&Rolf Couture S14

Vionnet Couture S14

Zuhai Murad Couture S14

Paris Haute Couture Week

This is going to be a dark/flowery/bright coloured spring-summer season.

Haute Couture always stands for perfect, delicate, exquisitely hand made clothing, which is tailored specially for the customer who wants something truly unique and one of a kind. Haute Couture also is a little teatrical and off the streets.It’s extravagant, magnificent and extremely loud. It’s the beggining of every trend and the very muscles of 16 fashion houses that share a place in this Fashion Heaven.
This time, we got to see some of that, and real clothes for elegant, femenine women who want simplicity for their every day garments, but also want them perfectly made and tailored.
We saw femenine, flowy, flower patterns, extremely bright colours over black, white and gray. We got to see layers and textures and fantastic embroidered works as well as delicate chantilly laces. Pant suits, long skirts and structured tops, short dresses, gowns suited perfectly for any red carpet or night event and some really extravagant wedding dresses.

Alexis Mabille has recently added his work to this exclusive Haute Couture club, and has yet to prove that he has the coherency and style to get this job right. This collection is just confusing. The colours and the trends are the right ones, but it has no connecting line, it seems that the collection has been divided as if it was designed in different periods of time. It doesn’t make a lot of sense, and it’s quite notorious. Plus, that “fake-grey hair” on every model with young looking clothes are also odd, to say the least.

Armani has a captive market, captive group of clients who just love his simplicity, his classic elegance and his structure. I’m one of them, I really appreciate a man who can make clothes that can actually be worn in a daily basis, although sometimes it can be a bit boring. Giorgio is always finding his inpiration and muses in Asia. It is clear that he appreciates to work silk and make it look almost liquid, dresses, and pants suits al the same. This time, he got some Art Deco inspiration, with geometric lines, pleated semi circles in plunging necklines and asymetrical layered skirts.

I’ve said it before, and I’m saying it again as many times as it takes, I LOOOOVE Versace. I love what Donatella Versace has done with the edgyness and innovative work of his late brother, Gianni. This is filled with colour, it’s sexy without going to a vulgar extreme. It has a strong personality, and yet some soft and sweet qualities to it. This are clothes for women with great bodies, and with a fun, outgoing personality who aren’t afraid to stand out in the crowd. ASnd the tailoring is just perfect. Those jackets and skirts are filled with hand applied bright studs that match the fabric and make it glow. Short, short dresses, with a clear roman-greek inspiration.

The kaiser sure knows what to give to the people. This melancholic, woodsy, absolutely Chanel collection was just what people were expecting. It was filled with the basic Chanel Tweed jacket, even in 60’s inspired short dresses, with very femenine and even childish feeling to it, accompanied with matching fabric long boots. Uneven or cut out shoulder pads, and sleeves and beautifully accomplished lace and embroidery.

Raf Simmons has just started to get comfortable in his Dior place. And his work has infiltrated completely the Dior world. This Haute Couture collection, inspired in spring, flowers and gardens was beautiful, practical and wearable. Light years away from the magnificent theatricality of Galliano’s work. Don’t get me wrong, it was complete, it was right, colourfull and contrastant, but I’m still getting used to the fact that Simmons is more of a practical man and designer who’s bringing Dior to a newer version of itself. We are all going that way, I guess.

Birght, soft, flowy dresses, almost fairy tale like are a winning formula for the red carpet. Elie Saab knows that and has made it seal for every HC runway. It isn’t wrong, but every now and then he should be able to throw in a little fun or shock factor. This time a black flower pattern that runs through out the dress was the breaking point. I don’t know if we’ll see this particular dresses on the red carpet, but I sure hope so, it would be very interesting.

Giambattista Valli got his couturier status, and I’ve loved his collections. This one is pretty dark compared to the last one. He’s constantly inspired by nature, and just loves tule and every kind of sheer fabrics, that give the touch of sensuality to his every outfit. This wasn’t one of his best, If I may say so. Giambattista should always follow his love for colour and just pour it on his work. Otherwise, it looks strange and incomplete.

The true surprise of this HC week was Jean Paul Gautier. It had its normal elements like the corsets and the enhanced breasts, the clear spanish gypsy influence mixed with indian culture and colour, but the collection was normal. Incredibly weird for the rebel child of fashion, for the man who has turned his back on every trend and every predictable way that fashion can choose. And this was a rather unpredictable move from the french designer. The stripes, the figure hugging dresses, the blazers and pant suits, just an every day, practica outfit for a woman to wear. This is shocking.

The extreme asymetrical cuts from Maison Martin Margiela haven’t really got my attention. I think they’re just going out of their way to make it look weird and evern a little ugly to have everyone’s attention. This HC collection had a lot of that weirdness and a little of beautifully crafted. They should try more of that if they plan to stay for long on the Haute Couture circuit.

Ulyana Sergeenko is a russian designer inspired by a very American film to make a beautiful, 1860’s collection. Long Scarlett O’Hara dresses, for a party and for the everyday use. Also the extremely big underwear gets to become outwear with beautifully embroided corsets and culottes. Now, this is theatrical Haute Couture.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and PierPaolo Piccioli have done a great job taking Valentino to a next level. The have seized Valentino red and taken it to a different place. Although, I’m pretty sure Valentino Garavanni himself must’ve hated the Rose Byrne crazy ass flowery, flowy disaster. Flowers, embroidery and lace were this collection strongest points. As always, Valentino is a very, very femenine brand, so there’s not a lot of surprise.

En el pasado…

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