Marie Antoinette of today

Rihanna made her second Paris runway with Fenty x Puma yesterday.

Contrary to what has happened over and over, and over again with Kanye, Rihanna has convinced the Puma execs, the critics, and the people that not only she has impecable style and can pull anything off, but that she can convey this fashion-savy feeling to a collection.

The inspiration of SS2017 was Marie Antoinette and her gym wear, had she ever been exposed to those places. And I’m not going to lie, it’s weird, and it points out that there’s very little room for fashion insecurity. If you don’t have what it takes, you will never wear any of Rihanna’s creations.
It has some very nice clothes and undoubtedly, there’s talent there. The outwear lingerie, the high heels with the sneaker shoe laces, the fancy pant suits and the silky palazzos.
Rihanna followed the steps in the NYFW with the pastel palette, with a stronger delivery.
And she also reminded us that she was not a 90’s child, because she keeps on betting on all those horrible 90’s trends, like the huge platform sneakers,  the chokers and the extreme hair.

Having said this, I do believe that, unless she’s going for the Couturier status and most surely athleisure won’t her that appointment, she could aim for something a little more street wearable.

Be sure that you will be seeing a lot of Fenty x Puma in the next Rihanna sightings.

Millenial Tropic

The sicilian roots of Dolce&Gabbana seem to be an endless inspiration for the italian duo, who has found and established a defined style for the brand.

The spanish influence on Sicily, the sea, the traditional italian food and the catholic virgins are the source of those core brand values, and they’re just good enough.
It is a fun, strange combination where the “Mamma” figure is always represented by the very feminine and sensual lace, and reinforced with the embroidered and shiny beaded virgins.
The pasta, gelato, pizza and pomodoro have a leading role in the collection, printed on the dresses, the jackets and the head pieces.
Even the fish from the sea, the glasses and the olive oil are captured on the clothes, and this tradition meets the millennial introduction that Domenico and Stefano are trying to convey towards the new generations, always looking for something aspirational and close to luxury to wear, with the logo T’s, the sweatshirts, the jeans, the appealing crowns and the sunglasses that are always a fashion statement.
The transition that D&G aimed for at their runway is still far from the metamorphosis that fashion will soon have to go through, in order to get to the digital millennials who naturally find the traditional runway, obsolete.
Milan and Paris are still struggling to keep its fashion traditions. Even when the collections and the ambiance change and develop into a living thing, the first stage is still the runway and the power houses have yet to find another perfect display for their work.

 

Michele’s 70’s

I must confess that I believe that the picking of Alessandro Michele as Creative Director of Gucci was an incredibly bold move.
The man has been working on the brand for a long time, and yet he was a complete unknown in the fashion circuit.
He is, undoubtedly, a talented mind. And yet, I do not understand his aim. I don’t believe it is clear.
Then again, the values of Gucci have always been a little ambiguous, creating space enough for the creative directors to go the way they feel like.

This is the introduction to a Spring Summer 2017 collection that I just don’t get.

It is very seventies meets amish-chinese inspired, if there’s such thing.
The textures are all over the place, from metallic colorful frills and sheer flowy fabric, to something like plastic turned into a pink dress.
Very far from the NY pastel palette, Milan is going full vibrant color and making a stronger statement. Let’s see what Paris brings.

En el pasado…

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