Natural and textured Spring Couture ’18

Haute Couture is sending a message, maybe not a meditated one, but it was clear. Nature, in most cases, was the inspiration for most collections. The textures, the roots, the flowers, the sky, the movement. In a clear or surreal environment, nature had a leading role in the trends that will be dominating the next year, in the clothes we all be able to wear.

Maybe it is also a cry for the industry to step back and slow down its pace. Many talented designers have resigned their posts due to the pressures of launching 6 different collection, tending to trends, and satisfying the loyal brand customers. And of course, battling the copycats, born and raised with the fast fashion brands, and their pressure to get people something new, every week. True fashion cannot do that, and neither this nature will be able to hold out for long.

Haute Couture is also feeling a lot more optimistic, the collections were full of colors (to the exception of Dior), filled with tulle, frills, sequins, embroidered flowers and a sense of lightweight, and a clear nod to the female empowerment. Many of the couturiers opted to show more pants, even tuxedo constructions owned by the softness, lightness and femininity. This is also a repercussion of all the social movements and distresses that we’ve been witnessing or have been a part of for the last year. Let there not be a doubt that fashion is a strong way to express one self for the human being.

Beyond all these meditations, the trends are clear, so get ready. Texture, a lot of it,  nature related, specially. Feathers, frills, embroidered flowers, and tulle will be making a strong come back, as well as some color block and as Galliano clearly stated with his Margiella collection, clothes that will shimmer with light.

NYFW is here

This is just a taste of the beginning of NYFW SS18.

The closing designer of the first day is none other than Tom Ford.

This man is talented beyond words. His eponymous label has always been trendsetter and wonderful, but this collection has a different sense to it.

You’ll see what I’m saying after you see Gigi Hadid in a draped Barbie-like gorgeous pink-lilac body hugging dress, with the metallic sleeves.

So feminine, so elegant, so chic.

Be ready to love it

An ode to slow Haute Fashion

So, the fashion industry has been experiencing some serious turmoil with the designers resigning, and maisons left without creative direction.

There are numerous reasons for a designer to leave. The discrepancies with the financial direction, the creative limitations or just a fight with the brand director. Case in point: Alber Elbaz. This is an ongoing fight, given that after his exit from Lanvin, his creative team has been very outspoken of their not so loved direction.

The rumor mill has it that Stefano Pilati is leaving Ermenegildo Zegna for Lanvin. So we haven’t hear the last from this particular case.

Now, there’s a new case of designers leaving and having issues with the brands, given the pace that fashion has come to thanks to fast fashion (we are looking at you Inditex and H&M). The luxury houses have to take on a much faster pace in order to catch up with the created demand of trends from the consumer, and the fact that fast fashion steals some inspiration, doesn’t make things any easier.

Designers who are artists first and foremost, are succumbing to the pressure of not having real time to look out for inspiration and the magic that makes luxury fashion special and different. I’ve written about this and I believe it is right. First, if the industry slowed down, we would be a lot more eco conscious and we’d stop creating obsessive consumption and actually create unique pieces that the people would want.
And there’s the internal job of the artist, of the creative process. If they have to put out around 6+ collections every year, there’s no real time to really fill the collections with inspiration and the love of creation that designers can give to their clothes.
Should these concerns go any further, we will be seeing a change very soon.

And now, in an ode for true inspirational, magic fashion, the latest Spring 2016 Haute Couture. You’ll notice the trends (beyond the pale rose and the serenity blue pentanes), we are aiming for colors, for very sheer and see-through fabrics, with a lot of flounces and tassels, mixed textures and flowers (that can’t be left out, because it is spring)

Alberta Ferreti with her Limited Edition, inspired in the Marchesa Luisa Casati with femme fatale in the 20’s silhouettes with a strong layer of animal inspiration, specially in the accessories.

Jean Paul Gaultier gives an homage to vintage french night life in his very particular way, enjoying that he no longer has his pet a porter line, and he can go all out and have fun and make great pieces in Couture.

Alexandre Vauthier just goes out for the sensual woman living the nightlife and enjoying herself. She’s a team and she’s elegant all in one. there are some powerful statements in this collection. And a lot of red carpet possibilities.

Armani Privé gives a sense of continuing his latest Couture collection that had flowy and soft, delicate fabrics with soft prints but this time he went for the mauve tone, going for lilac. And frills, bubble skirts and dresses. And the very trendy flats with straps.

Karl Lagerfeld is going eco friendly with Chanel, or as much as the brand is able to. He went for wild cotton and other natural fabrics, without forgetting the traditional Chanel linings, mixing them up with long printed playful dresses and some 20’s inspiration.

Dior has been left without a Creative Director. The kids who were working with Raf Simmons took over this collection whilst the direction looks for an appropriate designer. And of course, the result is that the brand suffers. This collection is not bad, it is just flat, there’s nothing surprising, nothing Dior-like but the basic guide lines. I don’t see Dior doing so well this time.

Elie Saab is changing. Or at least, the inspirations have changed. India meets boho-chic this could’ve been called. And it is just wonderful. It is the proof of craftsmanship, and shiny boots that everybody will love. Enjoy the flowy fabrics, the sari-like crossing, the beading and the embellishments, the show jackets with long necks and sheerness.

Giambattista Valli also homaged Paris (due to the terrorists attacks back in November), through its gardens and its flowers. And an encore from the last collection, Remember Rihanna in the huge pink layers tulle dress? Well, there’s a new version, with a black bandeau. It is not so creative, but it is beautiful. Oh, and the skirt with the short front and the long (even train) back are back.

I just don’t really understand Riccardo Tisci. I do not like most of what he’s done for Givenchy, and lately that horrifying lamp-like dress Cate Blanchett wore and the rather ill-fitting green gown that Julianne Moore wore for the SAG Awards. That one is actually in these pictures. It is not a bad dress, but it didn’t fit the redheaded actress right.

Maison Marginal has benefited greatly from the talent of John Galliano. The designer has refrained from his popular antics in the runway, and has found a way to mix the Marginal values with his own. As you know Margiela values are a little weird, and you can add to that the magnificent Galliano creations. There’s texturing, there are weird mixes and matches and some are big. And the boots are to die for.

Bertrand Guyon has also been a good match for Schiaparelli. He seems to understand the influences and inspirations that come with the brand. And this time, food and the lobster dress were the prime focus. All the elements of a picnic, including the blanket are included in the clothes, and it is a lot of fun.

I’ve always liked Ulyana Sergeenko’s collections. They have all that russian thing going on, and also that touch of femme fatale. The first collections were a little slow, and then they picked up. These one, I just didn’t get. There were corsets, and lingerie popping out, and 80’s trends, and country dresses. There was no common thread, no sense of order. It never built up ‘cause there was no where to go.

I love Valentino once more. The fact that Chiuri and Piccioli are aiming for their roman background has made their collections just the more beautiful. The last greek-roman one was just great, and this one is also fantastic. They went for a little baroque, but they kept the feminine, the sensual, the delicate and elegant, and the beautiful accessories featuring old coins, even in the feet.

Donatella Versace has gone to the vault of inspiration and it may have not been as good as they thought. The white suits with popping bright colors and slits are a good way to go, and even some of the roman inspired dresses, also rather colorful (like the one Brie Larson wore). But then there were all those weird Swarovski straps coming and going, like tying up the dresses pieces of a dress are a little bit too much. It is going for sensual and sexy to plain tacky. Maybe it’s time to back down a little.

Viktor and Rolf, as far as I’m concerned, do not design clothes to be worn, but to be seen as pieces of art. And this time, Pablo Picasso was the biggest influence. The eyes, the mouths, the heads, even the boobs were all marked out on very white canvas. Even over the models’ faces. It is interesting how art truly translates into fashion, the way Viktor & Rolf do it.

Zuhair Murad is a master of red carpet creations. The clothes are just picture perfect, and actually really beautiful. The dresses are dreamy, and this occasion is no exception. With the corsets and skirts worn by Elizabeth I and the english court of the time, the embroidered fabrics and the lace have a huge moment. Do not miss the wedding gown at the grand finale. Another master creation of artisan hands and dedication.

 

 

 

 

Tom Ford’s Disco Party

I distinctly remember, a few years ago, Tom Ford trying to fight off media, specially digital media.

And of course, he soon realized how stupid his attempts were, since digital media is all that we are and know now.

Fortunately, as soon as he made this discovery, he threw in head-first into the digital-social media craze, and carried along the massive amount of muse-celebrities (not that they weren’t with the digital media, but he’s always been surrounded by these people, so he had to bring his brand up to speed), putting the Tom Ford brand back on the spotlight.

Now we are witnessing the digital acceptance in all its glory, with the latest Spring-Summer 2016 video, which was actually the presentation of this collection.

The video is a crazy 70’s disco party, featuring a brow-less, ass-bearing Lady Gaga, as she covers Chic’s “I want your love”
Which is interesting given the fact that the last thing we heard from Gaga was the Tony Bennet collab.

The clothes are amazing. They have, as expected, the 70’s crazy vibe going on. They’s sparkling, and party-ready.

There are also short-short little black dresses, and jewel-military inspired jackets, sweaters,blouses and cargo pants.
There are mini skirts and a ton of snake-print fabric going on. Spikes, metallic outwear, jumpsuits, lace, black white, orange and a ton of leg showing and cleavage are part of these collection, that happens to have Tom Ford written all over, without a doubt.

And as the collection was great and Tom Ford continues to surprises us and be the fashion king he is, be prepared ‘cause I’m pretty sure we’ll be having a 70’s cover album by Lady Gaga, very soon.

Colorful 2016

If the runways have said something so far, is that we’ll have a very colorful spring and summer to come. There will be a lot less flowers (fortunately), and a ton of soft, flowy fabrics which happen to be the best for raising temperatures.

Just watch this Emporio Armani, and tell me what you think.

  

Couture going on fashionably street

I recently read that if fashion is made out of details, Cuture is made out of dreams. And I firmly believe it. Couture is the fabric of fashion’s biggest dreams.
And it has been proven over and over, now that Couture is going a little street to become a little more modern and a little closer to everyone.
Couture can be inspired by anything, There’s Gaultier who chose vampires, or Raf Simmons who took orchids and Marie Antoinette, or Ulyana Sergeenko, who’s closest inspiration is her motherland Rusia. This time, the revolutionary with a ton of silky fabrics.
We all know that Couture is only available to very few people who get to pay and wear the master creations, but it is also a source of endless inspiration for the more down-to-earth brands and for all of us who understand that fashion is creation, is communication and human expression at its best. And it is artisan craftsmanship work designed by a master fashion mind that makes us dream.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 14.47.36

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 14.48.20

Alexandre Vauthier is always a constant surprise and delight. He’s all for empowering women, making them look sensual and daring. This collection is not an exception, asymmetric cuts, down-to-the-belly-button necklines, high slit dresses, cut outs and crop tops, he went for a little rock inspiration with a touch of yellow and a spat of embellished very short red dress.I’m pretty sure the geometric patterns haven’t left us completely, since there are some harem pants with that fabric, but it’ll go out quietly soon.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 14.56.35

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 14.57.10

Bouchra Jarrar went also for the 50’s inspiration in a more true-to-date approach than Donatella. Of course, these pieces are far more tailored and more mixing masculine and feminine, with the bicolor man shoes. asymmetric bicker jackets, with flowy soft skirts and the perfecto pants in flawless satin. For Bouchra it’s just always simple elegance, in a woman who wants to try somethings new, but not go too far.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.03.42

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.04.52

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.06.52

The Kaiser again took Chanel to a new place, with the inspiration of architectonic works of Le Corbusier and avoiding the tailoring all together with fabric and intricate sequined pieces glued with silicone, as well as working with materials such as plastic, and suggesting sandals for winter. Then again, this si Karl Lagerfeld we’re talking about, and he can chose to put shorts under short skirts and a pregnant model bride to close his magnificent runway. Do not miss the golden embroidered dresses, the seined and very embellished details and the red. Here are the new trends.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.11.35

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.12.22

Unlike John Galliano, who was always up for a good dress up, Raf Simmons goes for the concept that Couture shouldn’t be only for special occasions, but for a daily life use. That is if you are talking about coats, simple dresses, and tailored pants that can be matched with a blouse and things that you can actually wear rather than a huge 18th century Marie Antoinette inspired dress or massive fur coats. This collection is rounded and complete, it is not what you’d expect from Dior, because most of them are just easy, every day wear. But as I was telling you, Couture has now started to take that path.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.17.39

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.18.33

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.20.36

My beloved Giambattista. Always going for eccentric looks, inspired this time by moorish and spanish tradition, as well as old Hollywood glamour. A little of a PJ’s wink and a lot of big colorful full skirted dresses, with stripes and embroidered flowers.Those petals and the mohair are just so out of it, and yet so beautiful. We will definitely be seeing a lot of Valli at the red carpets to come.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.24.59

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.25.24

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.25.56

As I warned this would happen, Maison Martin Margiela has gone for some creations a tad more wearable that all that crazy which with the mason started. This time they were playing exquisite corpse, which used to be a game surrealists played, by adding a part to a drawing in paper, an d then passing it along to somebody else who had no idea what was there, or what had been added. So yeah, this has Margiela written all over. Again repair in the very beaded, sequined work, we’ll be seeing a lot of that soon.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.30.10

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.31.01

Alexis Mabille has gone for the Susan Sontag’s feminine and masculine paradox, or so he said, because the collection is very girly in an old hollywood glam kind of way. To the exception of one pant suit, a huh waisted short and a skin tight jumpsuit, the rest are just perfectly crafted gowns and dresses. Maybe he got the idea wrong, but a job perfectly executed.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.34.01

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.37.15

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.38.01

Armani will always go to his comfort zone to start a beautifully crafted Couture runway. The red Lacquer was a main ingredient even when he started with pant suits and very elegant, classical skirts and jackets. And then all went sparkly beaded and tulle madness, with the red as the connecting threat of it all. It’s an experimental ground for everything to come, Armani has left it clear.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.40.25

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.41.41

I love Elie Saab, please don’t get me wrong, but he has done the same dresses over and over again for quite sometime now. Tha Couture collection is always aiming for night or formal events, specially those with a red carpet in them. Now he decided that pearls would be the perfect beading for his creations. He’s also going for short dresses for a cocktail event, some ombré effects, and stripes and sheer fabric. But it’s the same thing we’ve been seeing for a while.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.48.48

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.49.14

Ulyana Sergeenko went for a dark period at the russian history for inspiration. The time when the last czar was overthrown and the Soviet Union started. It could’ve been more believable if it didn’t all look like femme fatales and James Bond-Like spies. It will remind you a lot of Jean Pal Gautier’s corsets at the beginning of the 90’s decade. She’s going for the right direction, but she needs to find her own voice, sooner rather tha later.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.54.30

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.55.22

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.55.44

I have not liked the latest job of Pier Paolo PIccioli and Maria Grazi Chiuri at the head of Valentino. But I am always moved by those who chose to be inspired by their historical roots. This time Chuiri and Picciolini took inspiration from the 19th century reprise of roman togas and pre raphaelites, going back to nature and beauty. Even the production on the runway suggested it right away. This si a much simpler, nicer collection.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 15.59.15

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-16 a la(s) 16.00.00

Silver, turquoise, navy blue, and red were the primary tones at the Zuhair Murad architectonic inspired collection, with some geometric patterns and some very structured dresses. The more beautiful ones were those skin tight and the short ones that aimed to a younger type of client. Because, then again Murad is having the Elie Saab Effect, going for his classics, over and over.

Haute Couture Week Fall 2014

Is that time of the year again, where we fashion lovers, get to see true fashion art on the Runway.

So, yesterday Donatella Versace went full grunge, goth “Street-goes-couture” on the runway. The inspiration came from 1950’s gowns mixed with t shirts and bustiers. She gave us short satin jackets with oversized round shoulder pads, and some fringes which will be a hot trend this season. The T shirt mix was a very impressive one, because it matched that sense of asymmetry with just one sleeve and the satin taffeta floor gazing skirt. She created the illusion of a gown with a pant or shorts in dark blues and purples, with a touch of pink and Swarovski embroidered corsets and perfect tailoring, not leaving behind the sultry sensuality for which the house is known.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-07 a la(s) 09.39.20

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-07 a la(s) 09.39.36

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-07 a la(s) 09.38.24

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-07 a la(s) 09.38.52

So far, Schiaparelli has had 3 Couture appearances. None of them truly lucky, not even the Lacroix one.
Marco Zanini went for the squeaky, flashy fluorescent colors mixed with some animal print and extravagant hats (which is the only thing I believe is truly left of my dear Schiap) with some seemingly spanish influence, with a torero cristal embroidered jacket, and the maja dress in a weir yellow. The rest makes no sense, long pink coats, with tons of fur, leather, satin “almost sleepwear” gowns and what looked like a pachuco suit.
I mean, I know Elsa was incredibly extravagant, and wanted things to be big, or just go home, but we have to be realistic and notice that a collection with no sense speaks to no one, because there won’t be anyone who truly gets it.
You just be getting some interest in some pieces and not a lot of people who will be interested in seeing this translated for the “street” so to speak, given that it is couture.

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-07 a la(s) 09.36.26

Captura de pantalla 2014-07-07 a la(s) 09.37.31

Don’t go far, Raf Simmons has just ended his runway for Dior, and apparently it went great.

Like falling in love… With Vuitton

As. Follow up to her ad campaign, Michelle Williams is featured in a video, where she talks about falling in love with her roles for the movies she’s been in, and how it’s similar to falling in love with the marvelous Soft leather Lock It bag.
She’s looking as perfect as she did in the pictures, and the bag is just something that completes that cute, girlie, elegant ambience.

http://youtu.be/92F7GF-FPVk

Vídeo

Trends and Fashion Weeks

Fashion Weeks came and went as fast as usual. All the circuit showed the preference for punk, and the elegance of the 40’s. It’s going to be a very dark fall and winter, with splashes of very bright pink, blue, orange, etc. And you should continue to acquire that checked jacquard black&white print, because it’s definetely staying for quite some time. It’s good, it’s rather flattering for every body type, should you choose the right pieces for you. It’s easy to mix, and it could turn into a basic. Keep it in mind, because obviously the strongest trends of the eighties remain. Studs, bright colours, asymetrical crops for every pieces of clothing, and that “semi dark” appearance, with a very classy lace or sheer fabric touch.
Now, I’m going to go a little crazy, because I’m not going to get into the fashion weeks, and the collections. NOt this time, because it’s been some time, and I wan to take on a subject that has shocked me absolutely.
As you all may know, I’m rather inclined to favor the more minimalistic, classic elegant works. Lately, I’ve been drawn to Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier and that sort of of a little more extravant kind of designers. I wanna believe that I’ve come to a point of fashion undestanding, and I can really appreciate their art now.
I also believe that fashion is an art expression, the closest and more revealing that mankind has. It shows who we are, or who we want to be or appear. And you can’t run from it.
Designers have this amazing ability to express themselves on the runway, and to show what’s really important to them. And this tyakes me to the subject.
DOLCE & GABBANA FALL WINTER 2013
Domenico & Dolce have always been gifted and talented, but they found their true way, when they took on to their very italian, sicilian roots, and started filling their creations with this fantastic influence.
We must remember italians are very proud of their history; their art and cultural legacy.And these two have managed to saw the modern, the trendy, the barroque, the crafty-artisan work and centuries of delicate art in just one impressive collection.
I know not everybody thinks like this, but here’s the deal. Il duomo di Monreale in Sicilia, as well as the Basilica di San Marco in Venezia have intricate and elaborated walls with mosaic, which happens to have required years of work from people specialized in placing the little tiles, to make them seem as a painting. You can only notice the tiles from a very short distance, and it’s a work of art from centuries ago. To push the look even further, they added huge golden crowns, cross necklaces, earrings and those barroque glasses. Even the shoes had a golden sparkle. It was meant to be excessive, and decadent just as those churches can be. Those applications of jewelry also come from that inspiration.
Dolce & Gabbana were able to capture this in their pieces. And they mixed it wonderfully with 40’s gray skirt suits with red and white lace and embroidery.
It was INSANE how precise the balance was, how the put their D&G seal, and managed to keep it trendy.
I’m gonna let it sink properly, for you to judge it, with sme images, and the runway. Don’t miss the detail.

Red Carpet Season coming soon

The begining of the year is always the most interesting, fashion wise, ‘cause it’s Red Carpet Season and the first Haute Couture Collections are shown in February also. We’re gonna have a fashion overdose.

So let’s check out the trends that we’ll repeatedly see in the days to come.

The Statement Necklace

Image

Here’s Emma Stone with a red Lanvin dress, matching pumps, clutch and huge red necklace. For me, it’s all a little too much red, but it’s not that bad and sje’s always shown a keen sense of style so I’m gonna let it go. Notice that this necklaces should always be worn with a lot of cleavage and a dress doesn’t compete, because you will over do it.

Big Prints

Image

Kerry Washington is wearing Rochas, with an oversized floral print. Large prints have been around for a couple of seasons, an apparently they won’t go away just yet. So embrace it. It’s easy to over do it, given that the print is already an excess, so try little accesories, one coloured shoes and let the print do the talking.

Image

Not sure if I like this Louis Vuitton look on Kerry Washington. The huge creme Damier print is nice, but the 60’s silhoutte may not be as cool as everybody thinks, also the shoes aren’t her size.

Lace

Image

A classic Oscar De la Renta lace black dress, worn by Jessica Chastain. Let me say, I love lace dresses in every colour, they’re seductive, romantic, and incredibly elegant, but you have to choose the right lenght. I believe this one makes Chastain look shorter, and maybe the hair down doesn’t really go with the simple elegance that this dress shows.

Cut outs

Image

Kerry Washington again, in the Django Unchained series of premieres. Here’s in a white Prada with middle cut outs. Depending on where are they placed, they can be very flattering or very wrong. So, caution is the word whe it comes to this trend.

 

 

 

 

Anteriores Entradas antiguas

En el pasado…

What’s all about