Natural and textured Spring Couture ’18

Haute Couture is sending a message, maybe not a meditated one, but it was clear. Nature, in most cases, was the inspiration for most collections. The textures, the roots, the flowers, the sky, the movement. In a clear or surreal environment, nature had a leading role in the trends that will be dominating the next year, in the clothes we all be able to wear.

Maybe it is also a cry for the industry to step back and slow down its pace. Many talented designers have resigned their posts due to the pressures of launching 6 different collection, tending to trends, and satisfying the loyal brand customers. And of course, battling the copycats, born and raised with the fast fashion brands, and their pressure to get people something new, every week. True fashion cannot do that, and neither this nature will be able to hold out for long.

Haute Couture is also feeling a lot more optimistic, the collections were full of colors (to the exception of Dior), filled with tulle, frills, sequins, embroidered flowers and a sense of lightweight, and a clear nod to the female empowerment. Many of the couturiers opted to show more pants, even tuxedo constructions owned by the softness, lightness and femininity. This is also a repercussion of all the social movements and distresses that we’ve been witnessing or have been a part of for the last year. Let there not be a doubt that fashion is a strong way to express one self for the human being.

Beyond all these meditations, the trends are clear, so get ready. Texture, a lot of it,  nature related, specially. Feathers, frills, embroidered flowers, and tulle will be making a strong come back, as well as some color block and as Galliano clearly stated with his Margiella collection, clothes that will shimmer with light.

An ode to slow Haute Fashion

So, the fashion industry has been experiencing some serious turmoil with the designers resigning, and maisons left without creative direction.

There are numerous reasons for a designer to leave. The discrepancies with the financial direction, the creative limitations or just a fight with the brand director. Case in point: Alber Elbaz. This is an ongoing fight, given that after his exit from Lanvin, his creative team has been very outspoken of their not so loved direction.

The rumor mill has it that Stefano Pilati is leaving Ermenegildo Zegna for Lanvin. So we haven’t hear the last from this particular case.

Now, there’s a new case of designers leaving and having issues with the brands, given the pace that fashion has come to thanks to fast fashion (we are looking at you Inditex and H&M). The luxury houses have to take on a much faster pace in order to catch up with the created demand of trends from the consumer, and the fact that fast fashion steals some inspiration, doesn’t make things any easier.

Designers who are artists first and foremost, are succumbing to the pressure of not having real time to look out for inspiration and the magic that makes luxury fashion special and different. I’ve written about this and I believe it is right. First, if the industry slowed down, we would be a lot more eco conscious and we’d stop creating obsessive consumption and actually create unique pieces that the people would want.
And there’s the internal job of the artist, of the creative process. If they have to put out around 6+ collections every year, there’s no real time to really fill the collections with inspiration and the love of creation that designers can give to their clothes.
Should these concerns go any further, we will be seeing a change very soon.

And now, in an ode for true inspirational, magic fashion, the latest Spring 2016 Haute Couture. You’ll notice the trends (beyond the pale rose and the serenity blue pentanes), we are aiming for colors, for very sheer and see-through fabrics, with a lot of flounces and tassels, mixed textures and flowers (that can’t be left out, because it is spring)

Alberta Ferreti with her Limited Edition, inspired in the Marchesa Luisa Casati with femme fatale in the 20’s silhouettes with a strong layer of animal inspiration, specially in the accessories.

Jean Paul Gaultier gives an homage to vintage french night life in his very particular way, enjoying that he no longer has his pet a porter line, and he can go all out and have fun and make great pieces in Couture.

Alexandre Vauthier just goes out for the sensual woman living the nightlife and enjoying herself. She’s a team and she’s elegant all in one. there are some powerful statements in this collection. And a lot of red carpet possibilities.

Armani Privé gives a sense of continuing his latest Couture collection that had flowy and soft, delicate fabrics with soft prints but this time he went for the mauve tone, going for lilac. And frills, bubble skirts and dresses. And the very trendy flats with straps.

Karl Lagerfeld is going eco friendly with Chanel, or as much as the brand is able to. He went for wild cotton and other natural fabrics, without forgetting the traditional Chanel linings, mixing them up with long printed playful dresses and some 20’s inspiration.

Dior has been left without a Creative Director. The kids who were working with Raf Simmons took over this collection whilst the direction looks for an appropriate designer. And of course, the result is that the brand suffers. This collection is not bad, it is just flat, there’s nothing surprising, nothing Dior-like but the basic guide lines. I don’t see Dior doing so well this time.

Elie Saab is changing. Or at least, the inspirations have changed. India meets boho-chic this could’ve been called. And it is just wonderful. It is the proof of craftsmanship, and shiny boots that everybody will love. Enjoy the flowy fabrics, the sari-like crossing, the beading and the embellishments, the show jackets with long necks and sheerness.

Giambattista Valli also homaged Paris (due to the terrorists attacks back in November), through its gardens and its flowers. And an encore from the last collection, Remember Rihanna in the huge pink layers tulle dress? Well, there’s a new version, with a black bandeau. It is not so creative, but it is beautiful. Oh, and the skirt with the short front and the long (even train) back are back.

I just don’t really understand Riccardo Tisci. I do not like most of what he’s done for Givenchy, and lately that horrifying lamp-like dress Cate Blanchett wore and the rather ill-fitting green gown that Julianne Moore wore for the SAG Awards. That one is actually in these pictures. It is not a bad dress, but it didn’t fit the redheaded actress right.

Maison Marginal has benefited greatly from the talent of John Galliano. The designer has refrained from his popular antics in the runway, and has found a way to mix the Marginal values with his own. As you know Margiela values are a little weird, and you can add to that the magnificent Galliano creations. There’s texturing, there are weird mixes and matches and some are big. And the boots are to die for.

Bertrand Guyon has also been a good match for Schiaparelli. He seems to understand the influences and inspirations that come with the brand. And this time, food and the lobster dress were the prime focus. All the elements of a picnic, including the blanket are included in the clothes, and it is a lot of fun.

I’ve always liked Ulyana Sergeenko’s collections. They have all that russian thing going on, and also that touch of femme fatale. The first collections were a little slow, and then they picked up. These one, I just didn’t get. There were corsets, and lingerie popping out, and 80’s trends, and country dresses. There was no common thread, no sense of order. It never built up ‘cause there was no where to go.

I love Valentino once more. The fact that Chiuri and Piccioli are aiming for their roman background has made their collections just the more beautiful. The last greek-roman one was just great, and this one is also fantastic. They went for a little baroque, but they kept the feminine, the sensual, the delicate and elegant, and the beautiful accessories featuring old coins, even in the feet.

Donatella Versace has gone to the vault of inspiration and it may have not been as good as they thought. The white suits with popping bright colors and slits are a good way to go, and even some of the roman inspired dresses, also rather colorful (like the one Brie Larson wore). But then there were all those weird Swarovski straps coming and going, like tying up the dresses pieces of a dress are a little bit too much. It is going for sensual and sexy to plain tacky. Maybe it’s time to back down a little.

Viktor and Rolf, as far as I’m concerned, do not design clothes to be worn, but to be seen as pieces of art. And this time, Pablo Picasso was the biggest influence. The eyes, the mouths, the heads, even the boobs were all marked out on very white canvas. Even over the models’ faces. It is interesting how art truly translates into fashion, the way Viktor & Rolf do it.

Zuhair Murad is a master of red carpet creations. The clothes are just picture perfect, and actually really beautiful. The dresses are dreamy, and this occasion is no exception. With the corsets and skirts worn by Elizabeth I and the english court of the time, the embroidered fabrics and the lace have a huge moment. Do not miss the wedding gown at the grand finale. Another master creation of artisan hands and dedication.

 

 

 

 

Zoolander taking over the world

Vogue features in their last magazine none other than Ben Stiller in his fashionista role Derek Zoolander, and his leading lady, Penelope Cruz.
As you may remember Zealander was the comedy that Stiller made about male models, and it became a big deal.

Several years later, Stiller and his buddy Owen Wilson made a first appearance at a Valentino male runway as a first approach to the second movie about Zoolander and Han Solo.

Continuing with the craziness, Anne Winter is featuring Zoolander on the February Vogue cover and prime photoshoot.

And I say, it was about time that fashion could be able to have a lot more fun, and laugh a little about itself. These are incredible pictures for a fashion comedy, with a true fashionista outcome.

This is just the beginning

As you must know by now, The Golden Globes were yesterday night.

So, of course, we have a ton of fashion break down from the Red Carpet.

I have to say there were more rights than wrongs, but one of the worst looks came from Cate Blanchett. I’ve said it before, and I will say it again, this woman has style and takes a lot of risks that make fashion fun, but this time was a huge NO, NEVER AGAIN.

The pink frilled Givenchy was terrifying to say the least. It was like an ode to the twenties mixed with cabaret and a granny look gone wrong. The hair was off as well.

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Rooney Mara is always weird, I just don’t get that obsession of wearing dresses that are the same as your skin tone. It rarely looks good, even if you’re wearing Alexander McQueen.

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Jennifer Lawrence was my favorite in a hot red Dior with obliques cut outs, and that huge Chopard necklace. She was edgy and elegant, and fun.

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Brie Larson went for the golden trend and the cut outs, that seemingly will never leave. I loved the dress, I just think she could’ve gone for a different hairdo, that would’ve paired better with the Calvin Klein daring gown

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Lady Gaga wore a black velvet Atelier Versace. She looked good, just not great as people are saying. I’m sorry, the hair was a little weird, as well as the overdone make up.  I think everyone thinks she looks perfect, given the fact that she’s worn meat.

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Katy Perry wore a simple pink Prada gown. Weird for her, and weird for the italian Maison known for the extravagant designs. Katy look very elegant, the hair was cool and the make up was right. I liked it, but didn’t love it

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Alicia Vikander in white pleated Louis Vuitton. If I didn’t know any better, I’d say the dress was made for her. It fitted her perfectly, and expressed simplicity, elegance and even innocence. It was a good choice.

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Kate Hudson in a bare midriff Michael Kors. This cannot be called a gown. It was a long fitted skirt with a bandeau top. It was risky, but Kate pulled it off just right.

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Amy Adams in Atelier Versace. The dress had that crystal beaded detail, and the intense blood orange tone was just right. Amy has improved her style choices.

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Saoirse Ronan wearing Couture Saint Laurent. As we already saw with Vikander and will see it again, the “greek-roman” trend will have a come back. And it is fine, those silhouttes are very flattering if you know how to wear them right. This one even made Saoirse look like a girl, considering the dress was white, she should’ve gone for a little more outstanding make up.

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Emily Rossum in Armani Privé. I have to admit I love the red, and the simplicity, yet it is not one of my favorite dresses. There’s something missing, because I feel it is a little boring this way.

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Lily James in a sheer Marchesa. Following the trend, is this one translucent, one shoulder  “greek-roman” gown.The dress is great, the hair and the make up not so much.

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Kate Winslet goes for the safe bet. Stylish, yet safe that’s what this navy Ralph Lauren says to everyone. Do you think Kate should start taking some risks? And loose the crazy hairdo?

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Julianne Moore is a risk taker. Sometimes she gets it wrong, and some others are incredibly right like this shimmering body hugging navy blue Tom Ford. Even the long straight hair is right.golden-globes-2016-julianne-moore.jpg

Kate Bosworth went also for the shimmering body hugging gown, but chose a pink/reddish Dolce & Gabbana that fitted her perfectly. I’m just not sure of the ultra slick hair.

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Olivia Wilde wore a shimmering red Michael Kors that fitted her perfectly. Although the make up was flawless, and she clearly wanted to show off her ombré, the jewels specially the necklace required an up do, so it would really pop up.

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This is my favorite. Kirsten Dunst in Valentino. I loved the latest Valentino collection, with the roman trend because it is feminine and elegant and sensual and edgy, some of which Valentino hasn’t been since the departure of Garavani.

The black velvet, plunging cleavage gown was gracefully accompanied by earrings and bracelet. I would have chosen a stronger make up, but she did very well this time.

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Haute Couture, my love! Ep. 2

In no way will I discredit any of the other beautiful collections I wrote about, but Zuhair Murad and Valentino went out of their way this time with theirs.

This collections are just perfect, each in its way. And believe me, I have not liked a Valentino collection for a long time, this one I would wear for sitting in my living room.

Zuhair Murad chose his inspiration from the nocturnal sky. I may be incredibly biased this time, since I love stars. And the Murad creations fit me like a glove. They are, as usual, very feminine, very red-carpet-ready; with that princess feel and the added stared tiaras and belts. He used sheer fabric as tulle and organza with a lot more flow. Murad used some color and went for the palazzo figure in some cases, which is his innovation. It is a clear gesture for the 70’s trend that’s going on.
For the rest, expect a lot of these outfits in the events and red carpets to come.

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Since Valentino Garavani stepped down from the Creative Direction of his own brand and left Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, I lost most of my faith in the italian Maison. The couple has had some very unusual choices when it comes to the collections. As opposed to Garavani that designed for very bold, sexy women. Chiuri and Picciolini have chosen nude tones and  darker palettes, as well as looser silhouettes. They’ve gone with weird prints and inspirations. This is the very first time that those two have made me love a collection. Again, I may be biased since I prefer the roman inspiration (asymmetrical shoulders, the gladiator flats, the waisted dresses, and toga-like dresses; even the gladiator look-a-like short dresses). And this collection was clearly a celebration of the roman legacy of the brand, where Valentino first founded it on 1960. It has all the elements of the tradicional roman style, with very sheer fabrics, a bolder look for Valentino now.

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MET Gala 2015 China: Through the looking glass.

Tonight, The MET hosts fashions biggest party, as it unveils its fashion exhibit.

This year you will be able to see China’s fashion development. And it is always interesting, as the “asian” trend has been off the table for some time now. If you remember, back in the 90’s, we were all wearing those “China inspired” dresses and jackets.

Asian influence also goes to animals and bamboo prints. Sheer, delicate fabrics with a lot of flow, and at the same time, silky body hugging satin and structured taffetas. As it is China, it is mandatory some red and gold. The Invite also included some intricate head embellishments, and flowers. You’ll get it when you see Sarah Jessica Parker, as every other year.

Gold and silver, as well as semi nakedness under shiny embellishments and sheer fabrics, cut outs and some king of crop top were some of the trends on the red carpet.

Let it be said that most of the dresses had no relation whatsoever with China or any asian influence whatsoever, so the theme of the Gala should be stablished sooner so the participants had more time to figure out their dresses.
Rihanna showed up with a Guo Pei Couture gown which is obviously chinese by origin, but if you didn’t know I’m sure you would not figure it out it has any “asian influence”. I have to say that i loved Rihanna wearing the extra fluffy Pink Giambattista Valli, but this yellow giant cape with train and the head piece, and the shiny white sandals, and the necklace were a little bit too much, even for Rihanna who has proven to be able to pull off almost everything.

Let’s see the dresses.

Anne Wintour in Chanel

Anne Wintour in Chanel

Poppy Delevingne in Marchesa

Poppy Delevingne in Marchesa

Katie Holmes in Zac Posen

Katie Holmes in Zac Posen

Diane Kruger in Chanel

Diane Kruger in Chanel

SJP in H&M and Phillip Treacy headpiece

SJP in H&M and Phillip Treacy headpiece

Dolce & Gabbana

Tabitha Simmons in Dolce & Gabbana

Jennifer Lawrence in Dior

Jennifer Lawrence in Dior

Alicia Keys in Jean Paul Gaultier

Alicia Keys in Jean Paul Gaultier

Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren

Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren

Amanda Seyfried in Givenchy

Amanda Seyfried in Givenchy

Georgia May Jagger in Gucci

Georgia May Jagger in Gucci

Rosie Huntington in Versace

Rosie Huntington in Versace

Selena Gomez in Vera Wang

Selena Gomez in Vera Wang

Lilly Collins in Chanel

Lilly Collins in Chanel

Olsen Twins in John Galliano

Olsen Twins in John Galliano

Dakota Johnson in Chanel

Dakota Johnson in Chanel

Kate Hudson in Michael Kors

Kate Hudson in Michael Kors

Donna Karan & Calvin Klein

Donna Karan & Calvin Klein

Jennifer López in Versace

Jennifer López in Versace

Emily Blunt in Prada

Emily Blunt in Prada

Katy Perry in Moschino

Katy Perry in Moschino

Kim Kardashian in Cavalli

Kim Kardashian in Cavalli

Madonna in Moschino

Madonna in Moschino

Rita Ora in Tom Ford

Rita Ora in Tom Ford

Miley Cirus in Alexander Wang

Miley Cirus in Alexander Wang

Reese Witherspoon in Jason Wu

Reese Witherspoon in Jason Wu

Lady Gaga in Balenciaga

Lady Gaga in Balenciaga

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture

Rihanna in Guo Pei Couture

Cara Delevingne in Stella McCartney

Cara Delevingne in Stella McCartney

Beyoncé in Givenchy

Beyoncé in Givenchy

Olivia Wilde in Prada

Olivia Wilde in Prada

FKA Twigs in Christopher Kane

FKA Twigs in Christopher Kane

Solange Knowles in Giles Deacon

Solange Knowles in Giles Deacon

Cher in Marc Jacobs

Cher in Marc Jacobs

Allison Williams in Giambattista Valli

Allison Williams in Giambattista Valli

Amal Clooney in Martin Margiela by John Galliano

Amal Clooney in Maison Margiela by John Galliano

Kerry Washington in Prada

Kerry Washington in Prada

Sienna Miller in Thakoon

Sienna Miller in Thakoon

Joan Smalls in Burberry

Joan Smalls in Burberry

Rose Byrne in Calvin Klein Collection

Rose Byrne in Calvin Klein Collection

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Roland Mouret

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Roland Mouret

Zendaya in Fausto Puglisi

Zendaya in Fausto Puglisi

Carey Mulligan in Balenciaga

Carey Mulligan in Balenciaga

Karlie Kloss & Gigi Hadid

Karlie Kloss & Gigi Hadid

Lisa Bonet & Lenny Kravitz

Lisa Bonet & Lenny Kravitz

Lorde in Calvin Klein

Lorde in Calvin Klein

Uma Thurman in Atelier Versace

Uma Thurman in Atelier Versace

Kristen Wiig in Prabal Gurung

Kristen Wiig in Prabal Gurung

Keri Russell in Altuzarra

Keri Russell in Altuzarra

Julianne Moore in Givenchy

Julianne Moore in Givenchy

Liu Wen in Michael Kors

Liu Wen in Michael Kors

Jessica Chastain in Givenchy

Jessica Chastain in Givenchy

Claire Danes in Valentino

Claire Danes in Valentino

Jennifer Connelly in Louis Vuitton

Jennifer Connelly in Louis Vuitton

Helen Mirren

Helen Mirren

Rachel Weisz in Chanel Couture

Rachel Weisz in Chanel Couture

Kate Beckinsale in Diane Von Fustenberg

Kate Beckinsale in Diane Von Fustenberg

Karen Elson in Dolce & Gabbana

Karen Elson in Dolce & Gabbana

Some may be missing, but you get the point.

Remember that the MET announced that they would ban any social media posting, but apparently that isn’t working effectively since Madonna, Katy Perry and Lady Gaga have already released a picture of themselves inside the party. So let’s stay tuned to see how these people can survive in their naked dresses.

Dreamy Haute Couture

Yesterday was the last day of Fashion’s true dream-like event: Haute Couture.

In spite of them being shows of really unattainable pieces, this is where fashion finds its true art and inspiration. This is where the designers become couturiers and true masters of a very particular craft. This is where the word “trend” finds its true meaning.

And if you paid any attention, in the not so far future we will be dressing with long puffy skirts, a lot of sheer fabric, flowers and lines filled with color. We will see a lot of rock inspiration mixed with very girly, seductive traits, with fabrics with a liquid quality to them, with a lot of flow and movement and tons and tons of layers. Metallics, sequins, beadings and quite intricate embroidery will also be part of the inspiration for Prét a Porter’s season to come.

Karl Lagerfeld is a true master of fashion’s constant  innovative state. The man knows how to mix the always perfect tweed and the four pocket jacket, with an almost day to day clothings. In this runway he chose to make a gigantic flower garden that took 6 months to be made. And of course, as the flowers are colorful and sometimes big, so were the clothes. He keeps on pushing the crop top, which I don’t really appreciate, but it’s not everywhere. Playing with ate 60’s and 70’s silhouettes, there is quite some layering going on, and some fringes with sheer tule or organza.

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Of course, the novelty and highest of fashion news for this particular week, was the return of another master: John Galliano, for Maison Margiella. The french maison has been going under a lot of changes. The Martin has been dropped out of the original name, and went for the Dio disgraced designer to bring some of his incredibly talented eccentricity to bring the maison to this moment without loosing its values. That kind of job Galliano knows like the palm of his hand as he had to make it last for Dior for quite some time. So, yes. We saw all those crazy masks, and those face-like additions to some of the dresses. The mixing of textures was out of this world. And I surely believe that this will mean Galliano’s full comeback to the scene that once casted him away.

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Marco Zanini was let go from Schiaparelli and the team that was left behind has been taking care of the italian designer’s legacy. I have to say that I’m not sure anyone has completely gotten Elsa’s gist, an that is kind of sad. Then again she didn’t left too much to make a full brand with. So people are trying and this collection has been the best to date. Mixes the hats, and the dresses correctly, and also brought the brand to this actual moment, with the crop tops and all. But you’ve got to respect the colorful clothes and the amazing craftwork behind them.

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You all know how much I’ve praised Donatella’s latest job at Versace and Atelier Versace. I believe this time she went a little too far. She was insider in the female body, so no straight lines were found in any of the pieces. But there were too many cut outs to a point where the dresses went back to that tacky well-known Versace moment. There are somethings that can be rescued: the long jumpsuits, with asymmetric cuts on the top, the pant suits, the playful short dresses with shiny embroidery, and some of the not so show-off dresses. Blue, red, black and white were the color palette she chose.

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My dear Giamba. Always so full of strange ideas. The man got his inspiration from that MET exhibit named “Impossible Conversation” a One on one with Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada. He thought he could pull of something like that with Coco Chanel and Janis Joplin. And the results are debatable. He has that incredibly elegant seal that marks every single one of his collections. He works with layering as Joplin did with dresses and pants, and he uses massive amounts of perfect tulle to layer one of his spring matching gowns. Huge capes covering jump suits and dresses with 70’s silhouettes, and with that medium face veil so lady like. It’s just plain odd. It’s colorful, its playful, but it’s also confusing because Chanel and Joplin just wouldn’t have matched so well.

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Another designer with a rock inspiration was Raf Simmons, but his approach was completely different. Simons went for the chamaleon himself, David Bowie. The first pictures I saw of the runway, I just could not understand. The psychedelic skin tight jumpsuit and shiny high boots and those big fluffy tulle skirts. But once i knew where he was coming from everything made total sense. And he’s also channeling this constant evolving that fashion has to have, with the Bowie reinventions. Such a new look for Dior. The brand saw its legacy completed with the very feminine dresses. Raf also went for the layering with a type of crop top over the body of the skirt. He did this at the latest runway, but these ones are improved.

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Alexandre Vauthier went for the whole party with his brand new couturier naming. His collection went all rock&roll with plastic fabrics, strategic cut outs and a couple of pieces that seemed to come out of a mirror ball. It is a nice collection but not if you’re trying out your couturier name. It’s for the woman who will be partying for quite sometime.

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I’ve yet to understand the talent of Maria Grazia Chuiri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. I don’t think I’ve liked one complete collection since they took over Garavanni. But they have somethings that I appreciate and this collection has them. Flowy delicate gowns with very elegant and flirty details such as stars or poems written on them, or a soft touch of a rainbow. Percy lines at the necklines, and I make my point with this black velvet gown with a neckline that looks like wings. But velvet for spring? Seriously? The other part of the collection had that “coming out of medieval times” touch, with intricate embroidery which is hand made by very talented artisans, but it was like going from medieval to renalssance from one outfit to another. That part They could’ve saved us all.

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Bouchra Jarrar had chosen to empower women in their everyday lives, staying away from red carpet seasons or any place that you had to see a gown. Apparently, Jarrar has finally given up on this thought and finally has noticed how much help the artist provide by wearing your brand. So she had pant suits with fur and short dresses with a weird amount of zippers, for everyday activities, and made a very silky gown with a sheer cover and some beading. It is not Elie Saab or Zuhair Murad, but if she puts her head into it, she might a lot better.

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Armani decided a long time ago that he didn’t need to follow any trend but his own. That being the asian thing he has going on, even when he says the inspiration was just the bamboo, those kimono jackets and the huge vertical bows have “japanese” written all over them. He went from his very well known pant suits with crystal beaded black and navy blue jackets, and gowns with the bamboo stamped all over, in green or black. The sheer with Armani, never means showing too much skin, or any for that matter. He just layers it and gives that seductive airy quality to his pieces.

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Ulyana Sergenko is inspired by her own country’s history and I find that very interesting. But she’s loosing aim. Women do not want to look like matrioska dolls, they wanna be a little comfortable. And there are only 2 or 3 outfits that do not look like you can’t even move. It’s a fun runway to look at, I just don’t think it’s such  great idea for the real life.

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Jean paul Gaultier is enjoying himself since he shut down his pet a porter collection. This “61 ways to say yes” collection is the proof. These are 61 one ways to say yes to everything thats good and fun in life, not only to get married. It is meant to say yes to sex, to first dates, to new things, to new places, to new identities, to acceptance of the self, and Naomi Campbell was the big fancy bouquet.

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“There are strange evenings when flowers have a soul” Albert Samain wrote in 1893, his poems and his symbolism were the great influence in the Alexis Mabille collection. He aimed for flowers, but not the way Lagerfeld or Simons do, this was a darker side of the spring icon. Black lace and feathers, mixed with black and blue sequined gowns, capes and even a touch of hot pink and a huge bow completed his outfits.

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Viktor and Rolf also went for the full on bloom floral spring, with baby dolls. And over sized (which I believe to be an understatement) head pieces. The flowers were everywhere like the “flower bomb”, because those outfits did look like a greenhouse exploded. But let’s face it, it is Viktor&Rolf, it is eccentric and weird.

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Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab, the masters of the beaded and embroidered red carpet ready gowns.

Zuhair went for water as inspiration, because the dresses moved along and seemed dripping with beadings. Yet, there were blue, green and yellow pieces, along with the crisp white he chose to begin with.

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Saab went for the golden age of Lebanon, filled with joy and parties. He even threw a trip print, which is so unusual to the Lebanese designer. He went for feathers and beads, he mixed the textures to make a stronger statement.

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Couture going on fashionably street

I recently read that if fashion is made out of details, Cuture is made out of dreams. And I firmly believe it. Couture is the fabric of fashion’s biggest dreams.
And it has been proven over and over, now that Couture is going a little street to become a little more modern and a little closer to everyone.
Couture can be inspired by anything, There’s Gaultier who chose vampires, or Raf Simmons who took orchids and Marie Antoinette, or Ulyana Sergeenko, who’s closest inspiration is her motherland Rusia. This time, the revolutionary with a ton of silky fabrics.
We all know that Couture is only available to very few people who get to pay and wear the master creations, but it is also a source of endless inspiration for the more down-to-earth brands and for all of us who understand that fashion is creation, is communication and human expression at its best. And it is artisan craftsmanship work designed by a master fashion mind that makes us dream.

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Alexandre Vauthier is always a constant surprise and delight. He’s all for empowering women, making them look sensual and daring. This collection is not an exception, asymmetric cuts, down-to-the-belly-button necklines, high slit dresses, cut outs and crop tops, he went for a little rock inspiration with a touch of yellow and a spat of embellished very short red dress.I’m pretty sure the geometric patterns haven’t left us completely, since there are some harem pants with that fabric, but it’ll go out quietly soon.

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Bouchra Jarrar went also for the 50’s inspiration in a more true-to-date approach than Donatella. Of course, these pieces are far more tailored and more mixing masculine and feminine, with the bicolor man shoes. asymmetric bicker jackets, with flowy soft skirts and the perfecto pants in flawless satin. For Bouchra it’s just always simple elegance, in a woman who wants to try somethings new, but not go too far.

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The Kaiser again took Chanel to a new place, with the inspiration of architectonic works of Le Corbusier and avoiding the tailoring all together with fabric and intricate sequined pieces glued with silicone, as well as working with materials such as plastic, and suggesting sandals for winter. Then again, this si Karl Lagerfeld we’re talking about, and he can chose to put shorts under short skirts and a pregnant model bride to close his magnificent runway. Do not miss the golden embroidered dresses, the seined and very embellished details and the red. Here are the new trends.

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Unlike John Galliano, who was always up for a good dress up, Raf Simmons goes for the concept that Couture shouldn’t be only for special occasions, but for a daily life use. That is if you are talking about coats, simple dresses, and tailored pants that can be matched with a blouse and things that you can actually wear rather than a huge 18th century Marie Antoinette inspired dress or massive fur coats. This collection is rounded and complete, it is not what you’d expect from Dior, because most of them are just easy, every day wear. But as I was telling you, Couture has now started to take that path.

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My beloved Giambattista. Always going for eccentric looks, inspired this time by moorish and spanish tradition, as well as old Hollywood glamour. A little of a PJ’s wink and a lot of big colorful full skirted dresses, with stripes and embroidered flowers.Those petals and the mohair are just so out of it, and yet so beautiful. We will definitely be seeing a lot of Valli at the red carpets to come.

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As I warned this would happen, Maison Martin Margiela has gone for some creations a tad more wearable that all that crazy which with the mason started. This time they were playing exquisite corpse, which used to be a game surrealists played, by adding a part to a drawing in paper, an d then passing it along to somebody else who had no idea what was there, or what had been added. So yeah, this has Margiela written all over. Again repair in the very beaded, sequined work, we’ll be seeing a lot of that soon.

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Alexis Mabille has gone for the Susan Sontag’s feminine and masculine paradox, or so he said, because the collection is very girly in an old hollywood glam kind of way. To the exception of one pant suit, a huh waisted short and a skin tight jumpsuit, the rest are just perfectly crafted gowns and dresses. Maybe he got the idea wrong, but a job perfectly executed.

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Armani will always go to his comfort zone to start a beautifully crafted Couture runway. The red Lacquer was a main ingredient even when he started with pant suits and very elegant, classical skirts and jackets. And then all went sparkly beaded and tulle madness, with the red as the connecting threat of it all. It’s an experimental ground for everything to come, Armani has left it clear.

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I love Elie Saab, please don’t get me wrong, but he has done the same dresses over and over again for quite sometime now. Tha Couture collection is always aiming for night or formal events, specially those with a red carpet in them. Now he decided that pearls would be the perfect beading for his creations. He’s also going for short dresses for a cocktail event, some ombré effects, and stripes and sheer fabric. But it’s the same thing we’ve been seeing for a while.

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Ulyana Sergeenko went for a dark period at the russian history for inspiration. The time when the last czar was overthrown and the Soviet Union started. It could’ve been more believable if it didn’t all look like femme fatales and James Bond-Like spies. It will remind you a lot of Jean Pal Gautier’s corsets at the beginning of the 90’s decade. She’s going for the right direction, but she needs to find her own voice, sooner rather tha later.

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I have not liked the latest job of Pier Paolo PIccioli and Maria Grazi Chiuri at the head of Valentino. But I am always moved by those who chose to be inspired by their historical roots. This time Chuiri and Picciolini took inspiration from the 19th century reprise of roman togas and pre raphaelites, going back to nature and beauty. Even the production on the runway suggested it right away. This si a much simpler, nicer collection.

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Silver, turquoise, navy blue, and red were the primary tones at the Zuhair Murad architectonic inspired collection, with some geometric patterns and some very structured dresses. The more beautiful ones were those skin tight and the short ones that aimed to a younger type of client. Because, then again Murad is having the Elie Saab Effect, going for his classics, over and over.

Cannes has just started

The Cannes Film Festival began today with the premiere of Grace of Monaco, starred by non other that Nicole Kidman.

First of all, the Royal Family of Monaco has decided not to approve of that film, which is obvious. They never do.
But also, what is wrong with Nicole Kidman’s face? She needs to stop the surgery train right now, she looks so weird and puffed.
She also should take it easy with the botox, her face cannot move, it has no expression. It’s terrible.
And I’m sorry to say that her Armani Privé was also a poor choice.
It is clear that this gown had a lot of handcrafted work, with the being and all the silver studs and the lace and all, but the dress simply looked word. An the neckline changed from straight to heart and that also made it look like it came from an epic tv soup opera.
Laetita Casta was wearing a Raf Simmons Dior Couture creation, which also has a lot of craft work, but all the rest was of. The fitting was big, so it made her look small in the gown. The black pumps are just a huge NO-NO in this case, she should’ve gone for silver strappy sandals or something a lot less heavy, as well as the red-almost-black lips and nails. And with a dress with that amount of detail, you wear you hair high, and you brush it.
Karlie Kloss wore another Valentino creation that is beyond any fashion understanding that I happen to have. The extra intricated lace, the colors, the sheer fabric. What is that? Why are they aiming for medieval made-for-a-cabaret dresses? And sorry, but I just don’t believe its sexy or cute, I believe it strikes most of us as just plain badly executed.

If you are going to wear a rule breaking dress, you chose Stephané Rolland Couture as Zhang Ziyi did. The laser cut out shiny leather, mixed with the long silky white skirt and the big bow, gave the right texture mix feeling. The tulle train made it so elegant and appropriate for the moment. That’s how you chose something like that.

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Spring 2014 Haute Couture

I am a sick fan of Couture. I believe it is or at least should be the muse and inspiration of true fashion.
It’s the place where fashion truly becomes art, and allows the designer to become the couturier, the highest place in fashion hierarchy.
Not everyone goes the ART way, you can see Maison Martin Margiella, Viktor & Rolf and whatever is it that Marco Zanini was going after with his demi couture for Schiaparelli.
That’s the other thing, as you know Vionnet and Schiaparelli have been brought back to life, but haven’t found the right person to take the lead and figure out the muscle that each brand needs. Christian Lacroix took on the first Schiaparelli collection and as everything with Lacroix it was big, baroque and crazy. Zanini just tried to go with the crazy hats to make it seem a little Schiap. He’s clearly not the one to take on that brand.
Neither are Hussein Chalayan or Goga Ashkenazi for Vionnet, that collection had no direction, no resemblance to the true origins of Madame Vionnet.
Whoever is behind this come backs, has to look harder for designers that understand those roots, and bring them up to speed.

I’m going to simplify this one for you: we are finally leaving those horrible oversized silhouettes and finally returning to the curve hugging fabrics, and elegant and flattering drapings. Showing some skiing is coming back hard.
This spring will be a lot more feminine, not only with the silhouettes, but with the colors. You’ll see jewel tones, but soft pastels will be far more predominant. Flowers are giving a little way for butterflies. Gold will be black’s perfect pair, and animal print (big jungle cat type) will also be leading the trends.

Alexandre Vauthier always appears a little extravagant, but this time it was full on baroque and show off. Jewel tones over luxury silks, tules and braided leathers, with flowy or decadent draping and more skin showing that most of us really want or need. All the outfits were more night and party fitting, almost on the cabaret side of party.
Zuhair Murad gave a professorship on extremely delicate and feminine brocade and lace. Golden feathers accessories were the best companion to his creations. You cannot get more girly that beautiful soft dresses and gowns in pastel.
Whenever I see a Valentino Collection, I wonder what is Valentino Garavani thinking when he sees his brand shattered by Chiuri and Piccioli. Valentino was about sensual, feminine, modern yet elegant pieces. This collection just went all over the crazy. Maria Grazia and PierPaolo were inspired by Opera Arias. I love Opera, I’vee been taught and heard a lot of it since I was a child, and the concept of bringing the theme into Couture seems appropriate and fitting, unless you have crazy satin tigers coming out of the skirts or what appeared to be a potato sack.
Don’t get me wrong, I fully understand the work and craftsmanship being every piece, but the beautiful ones where the least. If they’re going to take cues out of Björk’s closet, they are bound to get it all wrong.
Elie Saab worked what he knows best. Tose beautiful red carpet gowns. But this time he took the time to amaze us all with that greek-roman goddess simple yet elegant dresses, as well as those colorful reverse ombre creations.
Armani decided to leave behind his trade mark grey, swapping them for all the shades of blue and mixing up casual wearable jacket pant suits (another Armani trade mark), with perfectly elegant dresses with a clear gypsy influence.
Bouchra Jarrar just received her haute couture appellation. This appointment makes a strong statement of her work. You can see that her collections are far more wearable than any other Couture one. Yet she choses to mix luxurious fabrics and bring them to and apparent every day use. The palette was as predictable as ever, this woman must hate color, because the one piece that stood out was a simple royal blue maxi dress.
The tormented Ulyana Sergeenko. She’s a newbie in the Couture Circuit, so she falls behind every single season. She was inspired by the Orient Express and the femme fatale silhouette of that time. They were perfectly made, and yet completely off based, with her huge balloon skirts.
I seriously believe she will finally figure it out.
The Kaiser is giving Chanel some really luxurious pairs of tennis. That mix of pastel tweed and sparkling tennis, knee and elbow pads would make Coco die all over again, but it’s a clear way of showing people that the highest fashion is going urban. This trend in particular walked all the way from the street to the highest form of fashion statements. And that is truly remarkable and fantastic.
Lagerfeld also is backing up the return of the tight, body hugging clothes, but then again Karl has a pretty tough stand when it comes to fat people.
The Greek -Roman Goddess trend is coming back with Alexis Mabille and Versace, but in different places. Mabille chose virginal white, with butterflies, long drapes and sheer fabric. Versace took the mewl glam, extra tight fittings to make the goddess stand out from every crowd, and a lot more skin, but at the end of it all, it is Versace.
Giambattista Valli truly loves his flowers, even when it is for bad girls that put on his couture right after a night of disaster. The draped mini skirts are the counterpart of long impecable taffeta gowns, and asymmetrical cocktail dresses.
Raf Simmons is weird. I have no words that match what I truly feel when his Couture collections come up. I’m pretty sure it has to do with all the love I had for Galliano, but this is so far away from the “New Look” Christian Dior origin. It’s technology applied to the best fabrics, and it’s craftsmanship to make them look so perfect, it had movement but the cut work was too much. And the over lapping of texture and fabric seemed like patches.

Alexandre Vauthier Couture S14

Alexis Mabille Couture S14

Armani Privé Couture S14

Atelier Versace Couture S14

Biuchra Jarrar Couture S14

Chanel Couture S14

Christian Dior Couture S14

Elie Saab Couture S14

Giambattista Valli Couture S14

Maison Martin Margiela Couture S14

Schiaparelli Couture S14

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture S14

Valentino Couture S14

Viktor&Rolf Couture S14

Vionnet Couture S14

Zuhai Murad Couture S14

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