Natural and textured Spring Couture ’18

Haute Couture is sending a message, maybe not a meditated one, but it was clear. Nature, in most cases, was the inspiration for most collections. The textures, the roots, the flowers, the sky, the movement. In a clear or surreal environment, nature had a leading role in the trends that will be dominating the next year, in the clothes we all be able to wear.

Maybe it is also a cry for the industry to step back and slow down its pace. Many talented designers have resigned their posts due to the pressures of launching 6 different collection, tending to trends, and satisfying the loyal brand customers. And of course, battling the copycats, born and raised with the fast fashion brands, and their pressure to get people something new, every week. True fashion cannot do that, and neither this nature will be able to hold out for long.

Haute Couture is also feeling a lot more optimistic, the collections were full of colors (to the exception of Dior), filled with tulle, frills, sequins, embroidered flowers and a sense of lightweight, and a clear nod to the female empowerment. Many of the couturiers opted to show more pants, even tuxedo constructions owned by the softness, lightness and femininity. This is also a repercussion of all the social movements and distresses that we’ve been witnessing or have been a part of for the last year. Let there not be a doubt that fashion is a strong way to express one self for the human being.

Beyond all these meditations, the trends are clear, so get ready. Texture, a lot of it,  nature related, specially. Feathers, frills, embroidered flowers, and tulle will be making a strong come back, as well as some color block and as Galliano clearly stated with his Margiella collection, clothes that will shimmer with light.

Spring 2014 Haute Couture

I am a sick fan of Couture. I believe it is or at least should be the muse and inspiration of true fashion.
It’s the place where fashion truly becomes art, and allows the designer to become the couturier, the highest place in fashion hierarchy.
Not everyone goes the ART way, you can see Maison Martin Margiella, Viktor & Rolf and whatever is it that Marco Zanini was going after with his demi couture for Schiaparelli.
That’s the other thing, as you know Vionnet and Schiaparelli have been brought back to life, but haven’t found the right person to take the lead and figure out the muscle that each brand needs. Christian Lacroix took on the first Schiaparelli collection and as everything with Lacroix it was big, baroque and crazy. Zanini just tried to go with the crazy hats to make it seem a little Schiap. He’s clearly not the one to take on that brand.
Neither are Hussein Chalayan or Goga Ashkenazi for Vionnet, that collection had no direction, no resemblance to the true origins of Madame Vionnet.
Whoever is behind this come backs, has to look harder for designers that understand those roots, and bring them up to speed.

I’m going to simplify this one for you: we are finally leaving those horrible oversized silhouettes and finally returning to the curve hugging fabrics, and elegant and flattering drapings. Showing some skiing is coming back hard.
This spring will be a lot more feminine, not only with the silhouettes, but with the colors. You’ll see jewel tones, but soft pastels will be far more predominant. Flowers are giving a little way for butterflies. Gold will be black’s perfect pair, and animal print (big jungle cat type) will also be leading the trends.

Alexandre Vauthier always appears a little extravagant, but this time it was full on baroque and show off. Jewel tones over luxury silks, tules and braided leathers, with flowy or decadent draping and more skin showing that most of us really want or need. All the outfits were more night and party fitting, almost on the cabaret side of party.
Zuhair Murad gave a professorship on extremely delicate and feminine brocade and lace. Golden feathers accessories were the best companion to his creations. You cannot get more girly that beautiful soft dresses and gowns in pastel.
Whenever I see a Valentino Collection, I wonder what is Valentino Garavani thinking when he sees his brand shattered by Chiuri and Piccioli. Valentino was about sensual, feminine, modern yet elegant pieces. This collection just went all over the crazy. Maria Grazia and PierPaolo were inspired by Opera Arias. I love Opera, I’vee been taught and heard a lot of it since I was a child, and the concept of bringing the theme into Couture seems appropriate and fitting, unless you have crazy satin tigers coming out of the skirts or what appeared to be a potato sack.
Don’t get me wrong, I fully understand the work and craftsmanship being every piece, but the beautiful ones where the least. If they’re going to take cues out of Björk’s closet, they are bound to get it all wrong.
Elie Saab worked what he knows best. Tose beautiful red carpet gowns. But this time he took the time to amaze us all with that greek-roman goddess simple yet elegant dresses, as well as those colorful reverse ombre creations.
Armani decided to leave behind his trade mark grey, swapping them for all the shades of blue and mixing up casual wearable jacket pant suits (another Armani trade mark), with perfectly elegant dresses with a clear gypsy influence.
Bouchra Jarrar just received her haute couture appellation. This appointment makes a strong statement of her work. You can see that her collections are far more wearable than any other Couture one. Yet she choses to mix luxurious fabrics and bring them to and apparent every day use. The palette was as predictable as ever, this woman must hate color, because the one piece that stood out was a simple royal blue maxi dress.
The tormented Ulyana Sergeenko. She’s a newbie in the Couture Circuit, so she falls behind every single season. She was inspired by the Orient Express and the femme fatale silhouette of that time. They were perfectly made, and yet completely off based, with her huge balloon skirts.
I seriously believe she will finally figure it out.
The Kaiser is giving Chanel some really luxurious pairs of tennis. That mix of pastel tweed and sparkling tennis, knee and elbow pads would make Coco die all over again, but it’s a clear way of showing people that the highest fashion is going urban. This trend in particular walked all the way from the street to the highest form of fashion statements. And that is truly remarkable and fantastic.
Lagerfeld also is backing up the return of the tight, body hugging clothes, but then again Karl has a pretty tough stand when it comes to fat people.
The Greek -Roman Goddess trend is coming back with Alexis Mabille and Versace, but in different places. Mabille chose virginal white, with butterflies, long drapes and sheer fabric. Versace took the mewl glam, extra tight fittings to make the goddess stand out from every crowd, and a lot more skin, but at the end of it all, it is Versace.
Giambattista Valli truly loves his flowers, even when it is for bad girls that put on his couture right after a night of disaster. The draped mini skirts are the counterpart of long impecable taffeta gowns, and asymmetrical cocktail dresses.
Raf Simmons is weird. I have no words that match what I truly feel when his Couture collections come up. I’m pretty sure it has to do with all the love I had for Galliano, but this is so far away from the “New Look” Christian Dior origin. It’s technology applied to the best fabrics, and it’s craftsmanship to make them look so perfect, it had movement but the cut work was too much. And the over lapping of texture and fabric seemed like patches.

Alexandre Vauthier Couture S14

Alexis Mabille Couture S14

Armani Privé Couture S14

Atelier Versace Couture S14

Biuchra Jarrar Couture S14

Chanel Couture S14

Christian Dior Couture S14

Elie Saab Couture S14

Giambattista Valli Couture S14

Maison Martin Margiela Couture S14

Schiaparelli Couture S14

Ulyana Sergeenko Couture S14

Valentino Couture S14

Viktor&Rolf Couture S14

Vionnet Couture S14

Zuhai Murad Couture S14

En el pasado…

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